Mittens + Gloves Archives - Mirella Moments

Amber wrist warmers knitting pattern

Mirella — Wed, 12 Apr 2023 14:23:32 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

The Amber wrist warmers pattern overview

The Amber wrist warmers will keep your wrists warm and fingers free.

These wrist warmers are knit in the round in DK-weight merino wool yarn and only a small amount of yarn is needed to knit them.

This is a simple knitting project, that will allow you to practice knitting in the round.

This pattern is the matching pattern for my Amber headband and Amber cowl.

Size:

small/medium to fit 18 – 19cm/7-7.5″ hand circumference.
medium/large to fit 19-20cm/ 7.5-8″ hand circumference.

The pattern is written in the small/medium size with the medium/large size in brackets (the only difference is the number of cast-on stitches).

Gauge: 20 stitches x 30 rounds = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette stitch after blocking.

You might also like:

Supplies

To knit these wrist warmers you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 40g (1.4 oz) medium weight yarn (category #4). I used Malabrigo Rios in the color camel (208). It’s 100% superwash merino wool.

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: 4mm 80cm (US6 32″) circular knitting needles and 4.5mm 80cm (US7 32″) circular knitting needles for the magic loop method. You can also use double-pointed needles as an alternative.
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch marker (optional)

PIN this for later!

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Sl – slip st purlwise with yarn in back

Yo – yarn over

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

The Amber Wrist Warmers knitting pattern

Cast on

Make two the same.

With smaller needles loosely CO on 31 (35) sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Join in the round being careful not to twist the sts and place a marker. I prefer using the invisible join method:

Step 1: Cast on 31 + 1 extra st (a total of 32 sts).

Step 2: Slip the first st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.

Step 3: Bring the second st from the right needle over the top of the first st (the one, that we have passed from the left needle)

Step 4: Put that slipped st from the right needle back to the left one (31 sts left). Pull on the strands to tighten.

Bottom ribbing

Switch to larger needles. The bottom ribbing is worked over 6 rows in the following pattern:

Round 1-6: P2, K2, P2, K1, *P2, K2* to end.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the ribbing shorter/ longer.

Main body

The body is worked in the following pattern:

Round 1: P2, K2tog, Yo, P2, Sl1, P2, Yo, Ssk, P2, knit to end.

Round 2: P2, K2, P2, K1, P2, K2, P2, knit to end.

Round 3: P2, Yo, Ssk, P2, Sl1, P2, K2tog, Yo, P2, knit to end.

Round 4: P2, K2, P2, K1, P2, K2, P2, knit to end.

Repeat rounds 1 – 4 until the piece measures approximately 18 cm (7.1″) from the cast-on edge or your desired length.

Top ribbing

Switch to smaller needles. The top ribbing is worked over 6 rows in the following pattern:

Round 1-6: P2, K2, P2, K1, *P2, K2* to end.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the ribbing shorter/ longer.

Bind off

Bind off sts in pattern (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches) loosely.

Step 1: Work the first 2 sts, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off stitches in the round without a jog here.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

I always advise wet or steam blocking the finished item, this process transforms the stitches and makes them look smoother and neater.

Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color), and roll it up to remove moisture.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (that doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this wrist warmers knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Thicket Fingerless Gloves knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 14 Jan 2022 09:07:17 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Gloves overview

The Thicket Fingerless Gloves will keep your hands warm, and your fingers free. They are very comfortable and pretty quick to knit.

These gloves feature a simple mirrored cable pattern. They are knit in the round seamlessly and have a thumb gusset.

These make a great gift too.

Size: Adult (circumference 18cm/ 7″).

Gauge: 17 x 27 =10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette stitch after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit these gloves you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 65 g(2.3) medium weight yarn (category #4). I used Drops Big Merino in the color olive (13). It’s 100% merino wool. If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are other yarn options:

- Debbie Bliss Rialto Aran
- LANA GROSSA Bingo
- MILLAMIA Naturally Soft Aran

Needles: 4.5 mm (US7) and 5mm (US8) circular knitting needles with a minimum 80cm/32″ long cord for the magic loop method or a set of double-pointed needles.
Cable needle (optional, if you don’t have a cable needle, you can substitute it with a double-pointed needle or a large enough safety pin)
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Scrap yarn

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

C4B – Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back of work. Knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the stitches from the cable needle.

C4F – Slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave at front of work. Knit the next 2 stitches, then knit the stitches from the cable needle.

M1R – make one right

M1L – make one left

PM – place marker

RM – remove marker

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times.

GLOVES KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

Both gloves

With smaller needles CO on 32 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Join in the round being careful not to twist the sts. Divide sts evenly between two needles (16 sts on each needle) or between four DPNs (8 sts on each needle).

I prefer using the invisible join method:

Step 1: CO 32 + 1 extra st (a total of 33 sts).

Step 2: Slip the first st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.

Step 3: Bring the second st from the right needle over the top of the first st (the one, that we have passed from the left needle)

Step 4: Put that slipped st from the right needle back to the left one (32 sts left). Pull on the strands to tighten.

Ribbing

Both gloves

Round 1: *K1, P1* to end.

Repeat round 1 thirteen more times.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the ribbing shorter/ longer.

Pattern

Switch to larger needles.

Both gloves:

Round 1 – 3: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 4: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Repeat rounds 1 -4 three more times.

Thumb gusset

Continue working in the established pattern and work thumb gusset for each glove (the position of the thumb gusset differs for the left and right glove).

Right glove:

Round 1: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K2, PM, M1R, K1, M1L, PM, K to end (34 sts).

Round 2: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (36 sts).

Round 4: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (38 sts).

Round 6: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (40 sts).

Round 8: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 9: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (42 sts).

Round 10: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 11: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (44 sts).

Round 12: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 13: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (46 sts).

Round 14: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 15: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, RM, slip the next 15 thumb sts onto scrap yarn, RM, CO1, K to end (32 sts).

Round 16: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Left glove:

Round 1: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K15, PM, M1R, K1, M1L, PM, K1 (34 sts).

Round 2: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (36 sts).

Round 4: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (38 sts).

Round 6: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (40 sts).

Round 8: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 9: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (42 sts).

Round 10: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 11: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (44 sts).

Round 12: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Round 13: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (46 sts).

Round 14: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 15: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to marker, RM, slip the next 15 thumb sts onto scrap yarn, RM, CO1, K1 (32 sts).

Round 16: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Hand

Continue working in the established pattern.

Both gloves:

Round 1 – 3: K1, P2, K4, P2, K4, P2, K to end.

Round 4: K1, P2, C4B, P2, C4F, P2, K to end.

Repeat rounds 1 -4 one more time.

Repeat round 1 one more time.

Ribbing

Switch to smaller needles.

Both gloves:

Round 1: *K1, P1* to end.

Repeat round 1 three more times.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the ribbing shorter/ longer.

Bind off

Bind off sts in pattern loosely (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches).

Step 1: Work 2 sts, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Thumb

Both gloves

Place 15 thumb stitches onto needles – divide them between 2 needles (7 and 8 sts on each needle).

With a new strand of yarn pick up and knit 3 sts between the thumb stitches (18 sts).

Round 1 – 4: Knit across.

Round 5-8: *K1, P1*

Bind off sts in pattern loosely as you did with the hand stitches.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, makes them look smoother and neater.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (that doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this fingerless gloves knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Glacier Fingerless Gloves knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 24 Dec 2021 14:13:40 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Gloves overview

These cute little gloves will keep your hands warm and your fingertips free.

The Glacier fingerless gloves are knitted in the round from cuff to fingertips seamlessly.

Size: Adult (circumference 18cm/ 7″)

Gauge: 21 x 32 =10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette stitch after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit these gloves you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 50g (1.8 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Drops Cotton Merino in the color off-white (o1). It’s a blend of merino superwash wool (52%) and cotton (48%). If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are other yarn options:

Needles: 3.5mm (US4) 4mm (US6) circular knitting needles with a minimum 80cm/32″ long cord for the magic loop method or a set of double-pointed needles.
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Scrape yarn

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

Yo – yarn over

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 stitches together

M1R – make one right

M1L – make one left

PM – place marker

RM – remove marker

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times.

GLACIER GLOVES KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

Both gloves

With smaller needles CO on 36 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Join in the round being careful not to twist the sts. Divide sts evenly between two needles (18 sts on each needle) or between four DPNs (9 sts on each needle).

I prefer using the invisible join method:

Step 1: CO 36 + 1 extra st (a total of 37 sts).

Step 2: Slip the first st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.

Step 3: Bring the second st from the right needle over the top of the first st (the one, that we have passed from the left needle)

Step 4: Put that slipped st from the right needle back to the left one (36 sts left). Pull on the strands to tighten.

Ribbing

Both gloves

Round 1: *K1, P1* to end.

Repeat round 1 eleven more times.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the border shorter/ longer.

Pattern

The lace pattern is mirrored for the left and right glove.

Switch to larger needles.

Left glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K4, P2, K2, Yo, K2, Ssk, P2, K to end.

Round 9: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 11: K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, Yo, P2, K to end.

Round 13: K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 15: K4, P2, K2tog, K2, Yo, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 16: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Right glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, Yo, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K4, P2, K2tog, K2, Yo, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 9: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 11: K4, P2, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 13: K4, P2, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 15: K4, P2, K2, Yo, K2, Ssk, P2, K to end.

Round 16: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Thumb gusset

Continue working in the established pattern and work thumb gusset for each glove.

Left glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to last 2 stitches, PM, M1R, K1, M1L, PM, K1 (38 sts).

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (40 sts).

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (42 sts).

Round 7: K4, P2, K2, Yo, K2, Ssk, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (44 sts).

Round 9: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (46 sts).

Round 11: K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, Yo, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1. (48 sts).

Round 13: K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K1, P2, K to marker, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K1 (50 sts).

Round 15: K4, P2, K2tog, K2, Yo, K2, P2, K to marker, RM, slip the next 15 thumb sts onto scrap yarn, RM, CO1, K1 (36 sts).

Round 16: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Right glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K5, PM, M1R, K1, M1L, PM, K to end (38 sts).

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, Yo, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (40 sts).

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K1, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (42 sts).

Round 7: K4, P2, K2tog, K2, Yo, K2, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (44 sts).

Round 9: K4, P2, K6, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (46 sts).

Round 11: K4, P2, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (48 sts).

Round 13: K4, P2, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P2, K5, SM, M1R, K to marker, M1L, SM, K to end (50 sts).

Round 15: K4, P2, K2, Yo, K2, Ssk, P2, K5, RM, slip the next 15 thumb sts onto scrap yarn, RM, CO1, K to end (36 sts).

Round 16: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Hand

Continue working in the established pattern.

Left glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K4, P2, K2, Yo, K2, Ssk, P2, K to end.

Round 8: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Repeat round 8 one more time.

Right glove:

Round 1: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 2 and all even rounds (4,6,8…): K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Round 3: K4, P2, K2, K2tog, K2, Yo, P2, K to end.

Round 5: K4, P2, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K1, P2, K to end.

Round 7: K4, P2, K2tog, K2, Yo, K2, P2, K to end.

Round 8: K4, P2, K6, P2, K to end.

Repeat round 8 one more time.

Ribbing

Switch to smaller needles.

Both gloves

Round 1: *K1, P1* to end.

Repeat round 1 seven more times.

You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the border shorter/ longer.

Bind off

Bind off sts in pattern loosely (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches).

Step 1: Work 2 sts, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Thumb

Both gloves

Place 15 thumb stitches onto needles – divide them between 2 needles (7 and 8 sts on each needle).

With a new strand of yarn pick up and knit 3 sts between the thumb stitches (18 sts).

Round 1 – 6: Knit across.

Round 7-10: *K1, P1*

Bind off sts in pattern loosely as you did with the hand stitches.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, makes them look smoother and neater.

Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color), and roll it up to remove moisture.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (that doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this fingerless gloves knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.