Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

What is the Kitchener stitch?

Learn how to graft ( join) two sets of live stitches using the Kitchener stitch.

The Kitchener stitch is a very popular method of joining two sets of live stitches together. “Live stitches” are those, that have not been bound off and are still on the needle.

The Kitchener stitch creates a row of knit stitches, that seamlessly blends with the stockinette fabric. As a result, the pattern is not interrupted and the seam is invisible. It is flat and not bulky on the wrong side.

The technique may seem complex at first, but once you try it out you’ll master it pretty quickly. And you don’t need to remember the steps by heart – if you need a little reminder, you can always come back to this post.

When to use the Kitchener stitch?

You can use the Kitchener stitch whenever you need to join two sets of live stitches together.

This method is commonly used to close the toes of top-down socks or the tips of mittens, to join the shoulders of a garment.

The Kitchener stitch works best on stockinette or between knit rows. If there is a row of stockinette below and above the seam, the seam itself will simply blend with the other stitches.

Below you will find the step-by-step photo tutorial on how to do the Kitchener stitch.

The Kitchener stitch is used in the following patterns:

• Orchid socks knitting pattern
• Lavender Lane socks knitting pattern
• Sunset Safari socks knitting pattern

Pin this post to come back to it later

ABBREVIATIONS

Knitwise (=as if to knit) –  insert the tapestry needle into the stitch from left to right, as if you were going to knit it.

Purlwise (=as if to purl) – insert the tapestry needle into the stitch from right to left, as if you were going to purl it.

SUPPLIES

Two sets of live stitches

Tapestry needle

TUTORIAL: HOW TO DO THE KITCHENER STITCH

To begin, thread yarn on a tapestry needle. You can use a new strand of yarn or the tail from your working yarn to avoid unnecessary knots.

For demonstration purposes, I used yarn in a contrasting color, so you can clearly see the steps and the resulting seam. You will want to use the same yarn you used for the project.

The length of the yarn should be approximately three times the length of the row width, plus 6” for weaving in ends later. 

Hold the two needles with the live stitches in your left hand. The needles should be parallel to one another, tips pointing to the right. The wrong sides should be facing each other.

If you are working with the yarn tail, it should be at the right end of the back needle.

Setup.

Step 1 (front needle): Go through the first stitch purlwise, leave the stitch on the needle.

Step 2 (back needle): Go through the first stitch knitwise, leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeated sequence.

Step 3 (front needle): Go through the first stitch again, this time knitwise, slip the stitch off the needle.

Go through the next stitch purlwise, leave the stitch on the needle.

Step 4 (back needle): Go through the first stitch again, this time purlwise, slip the stitch off the needle.

Go through the next stitch knitwise, leave the stitch on the needle.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until there is one stitch left on each needle.

Finishing.

Last step (front needle): Go through the first stitch knitwise, slip the stitch off the needle.

Last step (back needle): Go through the first stitch purlwise, slip the stitch off the needle.

That’s it, the Kitchener stitch is done!

TIPS

The Kitchener stitch takes concentration and practice. To keep track of where you are in the steps, say each step out loud as you do it and you’ll be in the rhythm. 

Be careful not to put the yarn OVER the needles. The yarn should always go UNDER the needles, otherwise, you’ll create unnecessary loops.

Keep an eye on your tension. For a truly invisible join, you want the grafted row to be the same size as the other knitted rows. You can stop every few stitches and check the tension. If the stitches look too tight or too loose simply adjust them using the tip of your tapestry needle – carefully tighten up or loosen up the stitches one by one.

I hope you found this tutorial useful. Be sure to check out my other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Learn how to bind off stitches in the round neatly without a jog.

When it’s time to finish your knitting project and take it off the needles you will bind off your knitting. A bind-off secures the live stitches along the edge of your knitting and keeps them from unraveling.

Don’t get confused, if the pattern instructs you to cast off stitches, instead of bind off. It is the same thing, and the only difference is in the terminology. In American English, it is called bind off, in British English – cast off.

There are many bind-off methods for you to choose from. Some stretch more than others, some are more decorative. Choose the one that suits your project best.

One of the most common bind-off methods is the basic bind-off. The basic bind-off in the round doesn’t really differ from the regular bind-off when knitting back and forth. You will be repeating the same steps, but if you simply bind off the last stitch in the round, cut the yarn, and pull the tail through that last stitch, you will end up with a more or less visible jog. This will make your project look sloppy. 

This method creates an additional stitch that connects the first and the last bound-off stitches seamlessly.

You will find the photo tutorial for the basic bind-off in the round below.

PIN this for later!

TUTORIAL: HOW TO BIND OFF KNITTING IN THE ROUND NEATLY

First of all, you will bind off all stitches the same way you would do it when knitting flat.

Here is a detailed tutorial: How to bind off stitches.

When you have one stitch left on your needle, cut the yarn, leaving a 4 or 5 inches long tail.

Now pull the last stitch out.

Step 1: Thread the yarn tail through a tapestry needle.

Step 2: Detect the first bound-off stitch and insert the needle from front to back under both legs of the first stitch. Pull the needle through.

Step 3: Insert the needle down into the center of the last bound-off stitch. Pull the needle through to the back of your knitting.

Now all you have to do is to weave in the yarn tail.

I hope you found this basic bind-off in the round tutorial useful. Be sure to check out my other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Learn how to knit the garter tab cast-on for a triangle shawl.

Garter tab cast-on is used to begin a top-down triangular shawl. This technique creates a small garter stitch rectangle, that looks like the garter stitch border of a traditional shawl. This way the top edge looks very smooth.

You will find the photo tutorial for the garter tab cast-on below.

PIN this for later!

Step 1: Cast on 3 stitches using the long tail cast-on.

Step 2: Place a removable marker in each of the 3 cast-on stitches, this will help identify the cast-on stitches later.

Step 3: Now knit 6 rows. Once complete, you will have a long thin rectangle worked in garter stitch. 

Step 4: Rotate the tab 90 degrees clockwise and look closely – you will see 3 purl bumps along the garter edge of the rectangle.

Pick up each bump and knit.

To do so, simply pick up the bumps with the left-hand needle, insert the right-hand needle into the first bump, wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit, and pull it through to create a stitch. Repeat this process with the 2 remaining bumps.

You will have 6 stitches on your right-hand needle.

Step 5: Now pick up and knit the cast-on stitches – the markers will help you find them.

Again, pick up the cast-on stitches with the left-hand needle (you can take off the markers at this point), insert the right-hand needle into the first stitch, wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit, and pull it through to create a stitch. Repeat with the 2 remaining cast-on stitches.

You will have 9 stitches on your right-hand needle.

That’s it, the garter tab cast-on is done, and you can begin knitting your new triangular shawl.

Here is a mini-shawl for you to see, how the garter tab cast-on looks.

I hope you found this basic bind-off tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Learn how to finish your knitting with the basic bind-off.

Once your knitting project is finished, you will need to close all the live stitches, so you can take your knitting off the needles. This process is called binding off (in the US) or casting off (in the UK). The terms may differ, but the meaning behind them is the same.

In patterns, bind-off is commonly abbreviated as BO.

There are several ways to bind off the knitting. Some are more elastic than others, some are decorative. You will choose the one, that suits your project best.

The basic bind-off is the most common bind-off method, it is fast and easy to knit. This method creates a firm and neat edge. This bind-off is not too elastic, so you might want to choose a different technique if you need the edge to be stretchy.

You don’t want to bind off too tight, or the edge will be narrower than the knitted item. To fix this you can try to make each stitch a bit looser than it should be. If that’s not working use a bigger needle size.

You will find the photo tutorial for the basic bind-off below.

You might also want to check out how to bind off knitting in the round neatly.

PIN this for later!

TUTORIAL: HOW TO BIND OFF YOUR KNITTING

Typically, you want to bind off in pattern. Meaning, that you will knit over the knit stitches and purl over the purl stitches.

For this example, I am using a swatch that is knit in stockinette stitch. All the stitches are knit stitches, so I’m going to knit all stitches. If there were purl stitches in the previous row, I’d purl over those stitches.

Let’s begin!

Step 1: Knit the first 2 stitches.

There are 2 stitches on your right-hand needle.

Step 2: Insert the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle and pull this stitch over the second one. 

There is one stitch left on your right-hand needle.

Step 3: Knit the next stitch on your left-hand needle.

There are 2 stitches on your right-hand needle again.

Step 4: Insert the left-hand needle into the first stitch on the right-hand needle and pull this stitch over the second one. 

There is one stitch left on your right-hand needle.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have 1 stitch left on your right-hand needle. You will see a neat chain of V’s forming along the top edge of your knitting.

Cut the yarn, leaving a 4 or 5 inches long tail. Pull the tail through the last stitch and gently tug to secure it.

I hope you found this basic bind-off tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

When you are working on a large knitting project, eventually, you will need to attach a new ball of yarn.

There are several different ways to join two strands of yarn. The one you choose depends on your project, the yarn you’re using, and your personal preferences.

Russian join is a versatile way of joining yarn. It is a smooth and clean join, that is sometimes called invisible. This method is a great choice when you need to attach yarn, that doesn’t felt, such as cotton, linen, acrylic, and yarn marked “superwash”.

The best thing about this method is that there are no knots in your knitting, and there are no ends to weave in later. This join does add just a little bit of bulk.

Also, if you run into a knot in one of your yarn balls, you can unravel the knot and join the strands with the Russian join for a smoother look.

Below you will find instructions on how to complete the Russian join.

PIN this for later!

SUPPLIES

Yarn

Sharp tapestry needle

Sharp scissors

RUSSIAN JOIN

Step 1: Thread your needle with the working yarn.

Step 2: Insert the needle into the center of the strand and weave it through the plies or about 2 inches. You might want to untwist the plies just a bit to make the process easier.

The longer you weave, the stronger the join will be. If your yarn is slippery, increase this measurement.

Step 3: Pull the needle with the yarn tail through, leaving a small loop at the end.

Step 4: Thread the needle with a new strand of yarn, and thread it through the loop.

I’ve used 2 different colors of yarn to show the join more clearly.

Step 5: Insert the needle into the strand and weave it through the plies of the yarn for about 2 inches.

Step 6: Pull on the two tail ends to tighten the loops and smooth everything out.

Step 7: Trim the excess tails on both ends.

I hope you found this Russian join tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Pom poms are so fun! They are perfect if you want to add a cheerful look to your knitting or crochet projects. You can use them to embellish hats, blankets, pillows, etc.

There are also many craft projects you can do with pom poms – make beautiful wall hangings, garlands, wreaths, jazz up your keychain or bag, make fluffy jewelry.

Making pom poms is really easy, and the process can be addictive.

Below I’m going to show you, how to make full gorgeous pom poms using the Clover Pom Pom maker. This little tool is very convenient and it will help you create beautiful pom poms in no time. 

Clover pom pom makers typically come in a set of two, I’ve also seen a set of four.

Currently, there are 7 sizes available:

• Extra small – approx. 20mm and 25mm | 3/4″ and 1”
• Small – approx. 35mm and 45mm | 1 ^3/8” and 1 ^5/8“
• Large – approx. 65mm and 85mm | 2 ^1/2” and 3 ^3/8“
• Extra large – approx. 115mm | 4 ^1/2“

Let’s begin!

PIN this for later!

SUPPLIES

To make pom poms you will need:

Clover Pom Pom maker

Yarn

Sharp scissors

How to use Clover pop pom maker

First of all, choose the right pom pom maker size for your project.

TIP: Extra small and small sizes are great for craft projects and decorations. If you are planning to attach your pom pom to a hat I recommend using the large set for medium-sized pom poms and extra large for a big bold pom pom.

Experiment with various sizes to see which one works best for you!

The Clover pom pom maker is made up of two sides, that look like arches. Open one arch and align its halves, which are located side-by-side.

Now start wrapping the yarn around the arch. Pinch the loose end of your yarn with one hand facing the outer side of the arch and begin wrapping the yarn around.

Go back and forth a couple of times until you have the entire arch covered. When wrapping the yarn, try to keep the same tension and wrap it around the arch evenly. To make a full and dense pom pom wrap the yarn until it lines up with the base of the arch, but don’t overdo it, otherwise, you won’t be able to close the arch back and will need to unravel some yarn.

It’s not really important on which end of the arch you begin wrapping the yarn, but you want to finish on the outer end of the arch.

When you’re done with the first arch just close it, and pull the strand between the gap in the arch. Hold the yarn, so the tension doesn’t become too loose.

Open the second arch and continue wrapping the yarn around it.

When the second arch is done simply cut the yarn so it’s facing the outer side of the arch.

Take the scissors and place them into the gap of one of the arches, and cut the yarn all the way around including the strand between the two arches. Use the ridge between the halves of the arches as your guide. Don’t worry, your pom pom won’t fall apart!

Cut a long strand of yarn and wrap it around the ridge a couple of times, pull it tight, and tie a few knots to secure the pom pom.

Now open the arches, and pull the two pieces apart to release the pom pom.

Fluff the pom pom and trim the excess strands, that are sticking out.

You can use the strands, that you used to tie the pom pom together to attach it to your project or just cut them off. 

And you’re done, enjoy your pom poms!

I hope you found this pom pom tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Gauge is a very important part of knitting. It affects the finished measurements of your knitted item, its drape, and overall look. It also determines how much yarn you will need for a specific project, and what needles you should use.

So what exactly is knitting gauge?

Simply put, the gauge is the number of stitches and rows a knitter makes per centimeter (or inch) using certain yarn and needles. If a knitter changes the yarn or needle size, the gauge changes too. The same goes for crochet.

In this post, we will discuss why gauge is so important and what affects it, how to knit and measure a gauge swatch.

PIN this for later!

Why gauge is important?

Gauge is crucial when you are knitting a garment, that needs to fit: hats, socks, sweaters, etc. Since you want your knit garment to be the right size and fit, you need to pay attention to your gauge. This way you will be happy with your knitted item, and will actually wear it.

If you’re working from a pattern, it typically includes the recommended gauge right at the beginning of the instructions. Gauge is usually indicated over 10 x 10 cm or 4 x 4″, but it can differ. The recommendations also include the stitch pattern the gauge is measured over, and if it is before or after blocking.

You will see something like this:

28 stitches x 40 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4″ in stockinette stitch.

This means, that if you knit 28 stitches for 40 rows, you should have a square, that measures 10cm/4” wide, and 10cm/4” high.

So, if you got gauge specified in the pattern and follow along with the instructions, your garment will end up being the right size and fit. If you don’t get the gauge, then the results can be unexpected. Your knitted item can be too big, or too small. It’s not a big deal if a scarf is a little longer than you’ve expected, but you don’t want to waste your time and yarn on a sweater, that’s huge.

When you know the recommended gauge, you need to determine if you get that gauge, using the chosen yarn and needles. The best way to do so is to knit a gauge swatch.

But what if you are not working from a pattern? Say, you want to knit a scarf in a cute stitch, that you’ve found online – you still need to check your gauge, because you still want to figure out the finished measurements, how much yarn you’ll need, what needle size to choose.

In this case, you need to examine the label of your chosen yarn. This is also what you do, in case you want to substitute yarn that was used in a pattern. All yarn labels have recommended needle size and gauge. It doesn’t mean, that you will get gauge, but this is your starting point.

How to knit a gauge swatch?

SUPPLIES

To knit a gauge swatch you will need:

• Yarn
• Needles
• A basin
• A clean towel
• Blocking mats (optional)
• A ruler or gauge ruler

A gauge swatch (it’s also called a tension square) is a small sample of your pattern, a test drive. It is worked using the same yarn and needles, you are going to use for that specific knitting project.

As mentioned above, typically you are going to measure your gauge over 10x10cm/ 4×4″ unless the pattern states otherwise. You need to knit a square that’s a little larger than the area you are going to measure (edge stitches tend to be looser, so you want to measure from the middle of the swatch to be accurate).

It is better to cast on the number of stitches, that will approximately measure at least 12cm/ 5”.

If the recommended gauge says, there are 28 stitches in 10cm/4″, then you should cast on about 34 stitches.

You can also add 3-4 additional stitches at either side of your swatch, and work them in garter stitch – this way the edges won’t curl and it will be easier to measure the gauge.

Knit for approximately 12cm/ 5” in pattern, and bind off.

How to block your gauge swatch?

I always wet block my swatches before measuring the gauge. This is important because yarn behaves unexpectedly after it gets washed. And since eventually, you will want to wash your knitted item, and you can be unpleasantly surprised. Your garment can shrink or stretch, depending on the yarn you used, so you need to keep this fact in mind.

Natural fiber yarns tend to change quite a lot after being washed. For example, pure wool tends to shrink, and merino wool grows.

Step 1: Soak.

Fill a clean wash basin with lukewarm water. You can add a small amount of soak wash, that you won’t need to rinse out or a delicate soap or shampoo.

Submerge the swatch and gently squeeze so the water penetrates the fibers fully. Leave it to soak for 10-15 minutes.

Step 2: Remove excess water with a towel.

Lift the swatch out of the water and gently squeeze to remove the excess water (do not wring!).

Next, lay the swatch on a clean towel and roll up.

Step 3: Block.

Pin the swatch to a blocking board and let it overnight to dry.

If you don’t have a blocking board, lay the swatch on a clean and dry towel.

How to measure your gauge swatch?

This part may sound obvious, but there are a few things to pay attention to.

Measure your swatch only when it is completely dry. You have come so far, you want to be accurate, right?

Take the pins out, and lay your swatch on a flat firm surface. Don’t measure on a couch or on your lap. You may also leave it on your blocking mat.

As mentioned before, measure from the middle.

I don’t recommend using a measuring tape, because it’s too flexible. Use an office ruler or, even better, a gauge ruler. Gauge rulers are very handy, you can also measure needle size with them.

Gauge ruler come in many different shapes and sizes. There are basic rulers, and there are also squares and fancy designer rulers.

How to get gauge?

Even if you use the recommended needles and yarn, it doesn’t guarantee that you will get the specified gauge. This means you’ll need to make some adjustments.

You can switch to a larger/smaller needles, or you can use a heavier/ lighter yarn:

• Too many stitches – go up a needle size or knit with a heavier yarn.
• Too few stitches – go down a needle size or knit with a lighter yarn.

If this doesn’t help, you can try to change the type of your needles. Switching to plastic or bamboo needles can change your tension.

What affects knitting gauge?

The knitting gauge is affected by so many things.

Obviously, the chosen yarn weight and needle size determine the size of the stitches. Thicker yarn and larger needles will result in bigger stitches, meaning, fewer stitches per inch.

Knitting style (English or Continental) determines the way a person holds his yarn and needles and also affects the gauge.

Another significant thing is your personal knitting tension. Everyone knits differently. Some are looser knitters, so they will have fewer stitches per inch and the fabric will be floppier, some are tighter knitters – they will have more stitches, and the fabric will be firmer.

If a looser and a tighter knitter work the same pattern, using the same yarn and the same needles, their results will most probably differ. It will still be the same project, but the finished measurements won’t be the same.

Interesting fact: your mood can affect your tension! If you had a bad day, you’re likely to knit tighter, then you normally would.

Let’s not forget the knitting pattern itself. For example, cables will “pull in” your knitting, so you have to keep that in mind.

Knitting a gauge swatch is usually overlooked. We all want to get to the fun part, and not to waste our time swatching, but a gauge swatch can save you from unpleasant surprises. It’s better to take your time, and prepare, so you’ll be happy with the finished results!

I hope you found this gauge swatch tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

The horizontal mattress stitch is a popular way to join two stockinette knitted pieces together.

The mattress stitch comes in handy when you need to join cast-on and bind-off edges of your knitting project. This stitch resembles a row of knit stitches and creates an “invisible seamless look”. The result is really smooth and clean.

PIN this for later!

HORIZONTAL MATTRESS STITCH | STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL

To seam the edges together it is best to use the long cast on yarn tail, that way you will have fewer ends to weave in, and fewer knots.

The tail should be at least three times longer than the edge that you are going to seam (plus you will need to add extra length for the weaving in tail). If the tail isn’t long enough just use a matching yarn.

For demonstration purposes, I am using a contrasting color.

STEP 1: With the right sides facing you, place your knitted pieces parallel to each other and line up the edges. You will have a top piece and a bottom piece. You will be working from right to left.

STEP 2 (bottom piece): Locate the first stitch, that is directly under the bind-off edge. Insert your tapestry needle through the center of that first stitch (from back to front, through the center “V”), and pull the yarn through.

STEP 3 (top piece): Locate the first corresponding stitch, that is directly above the cast-on. Insert the needle underneath that stitch (under both legs of the V), and pull the yarn through.

STEP 4 (bottom piece): Insert the needle through the center of the first stitch again (from front to back), and bring it up through the center of the next stitch (from back to front).

STEP 5 (top piece): Insert the needle underneath the corresponding stitch, and pull the yarn through.

Continue in this manner: work into the center of the stitch on the bottom piece, and under the stitch on the top piece. You will see a row of knit stitches forming.

Don’t tighten the seam too tight as you work, you want the height of the seam to match the height of your average knit stitch.

I hope you found this horizontal mattress stitch tutorial useful! Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

THE LONG TAIL CAST ON OVERVIEW

Every knitting project starts with a cast on – the process of making the foundation row of stitches on your needle (knitting abbreviation – CO).

The Long Tail cast on is one of the most popular knitting cast on methods, it works for almost any knitting project. This method is quick, and it provides a neat stretchy edge.

If a pattern doesn’t specify which cast on method to use, in most cases you can use the Long Tail method.

The Long Tail method uses two strands of yarn – the long tail and the strand of yarn coming from the ball. This means you need to determine the length of the tail first because you are going to start casting from that point. If the tail is too short, there will be not enough yarn to cast on the required number stitches, if it’s too long you will need to cut the excess strand or unravel the cast on so you don’t waste yarn.

The length of the tail depends on how many stitches you actually need to cast on, and there are different ways to help you measure the amount of yarn needed. For example, you can measure roughly three times the width of your finished project, or you can wrap the yarn around your needle until the number of wraps equals the number of stitches you need to cast on. Plus you will need to add a couple of inches for the weaving in tail.

There are many variations of the cast on, below I will demonstrate the one, that I personally use.

PIN this for later!

THE LONG TAIL CAST ON | STEP-BY-STEP TUTORIAL

This tutorial shows “Continental knitting style” in which the yarn is held in and manipulated by the left hand.

To begin you will need yarn and needles.

STEP 1: Determine the length of the tail and secure it with your left hand’s fingers.

STEP 2: Drape the yarn tail over your index finger

STEP 3: Wrap the tail around your thumb

STEP 4: Grab both strands with the remaining three fingers of your left hand. Now you are ready to cast on!

STEP 5: Hold the knitting needle in your right hand. Insert the needle through the bottom of the loop on your thumb.

STEP 6: Grab the strand on your index finger.

STEP 7: Pull the strand through the loop on your thumb.

STEP 8: Release your thumb from the loop.

STEP 9: Bring your thumb under the strand to tighten. You have created a slip stitch, that is the first stitch on the needle.

Now you will need to repeat the steps until you have cast on the required number of stitches.

You will continue with step 5.

TIP: If you want to make the cast on looser (some patterns call for a “loose cast on”)  cast on over two needles – just hold them together as one. This is very handy when your knitting project starts with a ribbing (socks, hats, etc.).

I hope you found this long tail cast-on tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

LEARN TO KNIT SQUARE OR DUTCH SOCK HEEL

There are many different sock heels and their variations, but the Square or Dutch heel is my personal favorite. It is basically what it sounds like: a square heel with a rectangular cap. It has a very nice fit and is really easy to work – there is literally no counting to be done after the setup!

I also prefer to reinforce my heel using a slip stitched pattern (both the heel flap and the cap) and it works great with this heel type. It feels comfortable and the socks last longer this way.

For this example, I’m using Regia 4-Ply yarn and 2.5mm double-pointed needles by Addi.

SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE TECHNIQUE

The idea behind the Square heel is the following:

Heel flap – work back and forth on half the total number of all stitches.

Heel turn – knit in short rows on the central third of the stitches. At the end of each row knit the last center stitch together with the next stitch. Repeat until there are only center stitches left.

Heel gusset – work in the round again. Pick up stitches along the edge of the heel flap and decrease them in every round until you have the original number of stitches.

Heel flap

The heel flap is worked on half the total number of all stitches. In this example the total number of stitches is 60, so the heel is worked on 30 stitches. The remaining half (that’s 30 stitches of the instep) is left on hold for now.

The heel is worked on the last two needles –  3 and 4. You can transfer the heel stitches onto one needle for the ease of knitting.

Now work back and forth in stockinette. You will begin on the wrong side, end on the right side.

The total number of rows worked should be equal to the number of stitches of the heel. The heel is worked on 30 stitches, so that’s 30 rows.

HEEL FLAP PATTERN:

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P to end of row, Turn.

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K to end of row, Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fourteen more times.

HEEL TURN

Now to the heel turn, this is the step where the cap is formed.

First, divide the stitches into 3 equal parts. In this example, 30 stitches divided by 3 is 10 stitches in each part. You can also place stitch markers between the parts.

Begin on the wrong side, end on the right side.

(Setup) Row 1 (WS): Slip the first stitch and purl to the last stitch of the central part (before the second marker). You can remove the marker now.

Purl the last stitch of the center part and the first stitch from the side part together.

Turn your work.

(Setup) Row 2 (RS): Slip the first stitch and knit to the last stitch of the central part (before the marker). You can remove the marker now.

Knit the last stitch of the center part and the first stitch from the side part together.

Turn your work.

Now you can see the center part forming clearly and you don’t even need the markers. Continue to work the center stitches, at the end of each row knit or purl the last center stitch together with the next stitch until there are only center stitches left.

HEEL TURN PATTERN:

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P18, P2tog, Turn

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K8, Ssk, Turn

Row 3 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P8, P2tog, Turn

Row 4 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K8, Ssk, Turn

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until there are only center stitches left.

What if the number of stitches can’t be divided into 3 equal parts? Not a problem, the important thing is for the side parts to have an equal amount of stitches:

• If you have 1 extra stitch – add it to the center part. For example, if you have a total of 62 stitches, then you are working the heel flap on 31 stitches. Divide 31 into 3 parts and you will have 10/11/10.
• If you have 2 extra stitches – add them to the side parts. For example, if you have a total of 52 stitches, then you are working the heel flap on 26 stitches. Divide 34 into 3 parts and you will have 9/8/9.

Heel Gusset

The gusset is worked in the round again.

Needle 4 (now holds 10 stitches of the heel): Pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the heel flap and the instep) to avoid a gap – you will pick up 16 stitches

Needle 1 and 2 (the instep): Knit to end of needle

Needle 3 (new needle): Pick up 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the instep and the heel flap) and 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap – you will pick up 16 stitches. With the same needle knit the first 5 stitches from needle 4 and leave them on needle 3.

Now you have the following number of stitches on each needle:

Needles 1 and 2: 15 stitches

Needle 3 and 4: 21 stitch

At this point, you will need to decrease the stitches on needles 3 and 4 (from 21 stitches to 15 stitches on each), needles 1 and 2 are worked in pattern.

The new round begins on needle 4 – in the middle of the heel.

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needles 1 and 2: Knit to end of needle

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Repeat decreases in every round until you a the original number of stitches.

So this is how the heel looks when the gusset is finished and a couple of rows are knit in stockinette.

I hope you found the Dutch sock heel tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!