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Headband overview
The Crocus Headband features a lace motif on a reverse stockinette background. The pattern is a 6-row repeat.
The headband is knitted flat and the shorter edges are sewn together forming a twist and hiding the seam.
This headband is knitted with light weight yarn.
You will find the knitting instructions below.
Size: To fit women’s medium (54-56 cm/ 21 3/4 – 22″).
If you are knitting for a smaller/bigger circumference just knit fewer/ more rows.
Gauge: 10 x 10 cm = 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Gauge is not crucial for this project.
Finished measurements:
- Width: 10cm (4″) wide.
- Circumference: 50cm (19.75″).
Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.
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- Timber Headband knitting pattern
- Equinox Headband knitting pattern
- Canyon Headband knitting pattern
- Pine Forest Headband knitting pattern
- Mimosa Headband knitting pattern
PIN this for later!
Supplies
To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:
- Yarn: ~50g (1.8oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Drops Lima in the color orchid (uni color 4088). It’s a blend of 65% wool and 35% alpaca. If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:
- Needles: 4mm (US6) knitting needles or size needed to obtain the gauge.
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
Abbreviations
CO – cast on.
St (s) – stitch (es).
K – knit.
P – purl.
Sl – slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
K2tog – knit two stitches together
Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together
Yo – yarn over
CROCUS HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN
Cast on
CO on 25 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.
Headband
All the wrong-side rows (2, 4, and 6) are identical.
Row 1: K3, P3, K2, K2tog, K2, YO, K1, Yo, K2, Ssk, K2, P3, Sl3.
Row 2: K6, P6, K1, P6, K3, Sl3.
Row 3: K3, P3, K1, K2tog, K2, Yo, K3, Yo, K2, Ssk, K1, P3, Sl3.
Row 4: K6, P6, K1, P6, K3, Sl3.
Row 5: K3, P3, K2tog, K2, Yo, K5, Yo, K2, Ssk, P3, Sl3.
Row 6: K6, P6, K1, P6, K3, Sl3.
Repeat rows 1-6 until the headband measures 50cm (19.75″) or your desired length.
Bind off
Bind off sts in pattern (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches).
Step 1: Work 2, bring the first st over the second one.
Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.
Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 30-40cm / 12-16″ tail to seam the headband. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.
You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.
Twist
Step 1: With the right side facing you, bring the shorter edges closer together and fold each edge in half so they look like a “V”.
Step 2: Now insert one edge into another. Make sure, that the yarn tail is on the outside, and not in between the layers.
Step 3: Stitch through all 4 layers of knit fabric back and forth.
Finishing
Weave in all loose ends, and turn the headband the right side out.
Wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, makes them look smoother and neater.
Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel, and roll it up to remove moisture.
Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.
I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!
Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.
It seems this pattern isn’t quite right I think. I ended up altering the last 3 stitches on odd rows to K3 and changing the first 6 stitches on even rows to P3 K3.
I’ve checked the pattern, and it is correct. The first and last 3 stitches form the i-cord edging, that is worked as follows: knit 3sts at the beginning of every row, slip the last 3 sts (with yarn in front) of every row.
I assume you’ve used another way to work the i-cord.
You are correct. The pattern is at fault. I have had to do the same as you.
The pattern is correct, this is how I work all my i-cord edges: knit the first 3sts of every row, slip the last 3sts of every row purlwise with yarn in front. You can, of course, work the edges differently.
Hi Mirella…I am at best an intermediate beginner trying to expand my repertoire.
I am struggling with the Sl3 at the end of the row because if I don’t use those stitches in the next even row I don’t have enough stitches. How do I use those slipped stitches to start the next even row k6? Trying to knit my granddaughter a headband for Christmas. I really like the pattern and hoping I will be able to do it. Thank you for sharing your pattern. It’s beautiful 😊
Hi Kate! I-cord edging can be a bit confusing at first, but it is really simple. At the end of the round you bring the working yarn forward and slip the last 3 stitches (purlwise) onto your right needle. Now all your stitches are on the right needle, the working yarn is connected to the 4th stitch from the needle tip – this is how it should be. Turn your work to start the following round – the working yarn is at the back of your work, but it is not connected to the last stitch. Now knit as you normally would – insert the needle into the 1st stitch and using the working yarn make a knit stitch as you normally would. As a result the edge stitches will be pulled in and they will make a tube – the i-cord edging.