Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Pattern overview

The elevation yoga socks are great for yoga, pilates, and other exercises. These toeless and heelless socks will keep your feet warm during your yoga practice, still allowing you to grip the mat or floor. They are also great to wear after a pedicure.

If you are intimidated by knitting socks, you can begin with this simple pattern. Since there is no heel and toe, it’s a quick and simple project for beginners.

These socks are worked top-down in the round on double-pointed needles. You can also use circular needles for the magic loop method.

The socks make a cute little gift for yoga lovers.

Measurements: To fit women’s medium. These socks are stretchy and will fit most adult women’s feet.

Gauge: 30 stitches x 42 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in pattern after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below!

You might also like:

• What is the best yarn for knitting socks?
• Knitting tutorial: how to knit basic socks
• Lavender Lane Socks knitting pattern
• Amber Wrist Warmers knitting pattern
• Yarrow Headband knitting pattern

PIN this pattern for later!

Supplies

• Yarn: Fingering weight sock yarn. I used Landlust by Lana Grossa.

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

• Heritage by Cascade
• Stroll Tonal by KnitPicks
• Alegria by Manos del Uruguay

• Needles: A set of five 2.5mm (US 1.5) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge. You can also use circular needles if you prefer the magic loop method.
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle
• Sock Blockers (optional)

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

S – slip the stitch purlwise with yarn in back

* * – Repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated number of times

ELEVATION YOGA SOCKS KNITTING PATTERN

You can Pin the pattern to your Pinterest board for later.

You can save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Cuff

Loosely cast on 63 stitches using the Long Tail Cast On method or the one you prefer.

TIP: Cast stitches onto 2 needles – this way the ribbing will be more elastic or go up a needle size.

Divide the stitches evenly between 3 needles (you will have 21 stitches on each needle). Be careful not to twist the stitches starting the first round.

Round 1: *P1, K2, P2, S1, P1*

Round 2: *P1, K2, P2, K1, P1*

Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until the piece measures approximately 12cm(4.7″) or your desired length.

TIP: When working the 1st row knit the first 2 stitches using 2 strands of yarn (yarn from the ball and the tail) to avoid a gap. Also, knit the last and the first stitch on a needle a little tighter than the rest of the stitches.

Heel

Work 32 stitches in pattern.

Loosely bind off 31 stitches in pattern (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches):

Step 1: Work 2 sts, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have bound off 31 sts.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Work the next 32 stitches in pattern. Cast on 31 stitches using the thumb cast on.

Foot

Again, divide the stitches evenly between 3 needles (21 stitches on each needle).

Continue working in the established pattern until the piece measures approximately 24cm(9.4″) or your desired length.

Bind off all stitches in pattern.

Cut the yarn leaving approximately a 10 cm (4”) tail.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

I always advise wet blocking the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel, and roll it up to remove moisture.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you have enjoyed this sock knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

PATTERN OVERVIEW

Sunset Safari socks feature a simple lace pattern on the top of the foot, and contrasting cuff, heels, and toes.

The socks are knitted in the round from cuff to toe using double-pointed needles (you can use circular needles and magic loop technique). The pattern includes a double ribbing, a square (Dutch) heel, that is worked in a slip stitch pattern, and a wedge toe.

Measurements: To fit women’s medium. The length of the foot is customizable.

Gauge: 30 stitches x 42 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Please take your time to knit a gauge swatch to achieve the correct size. If you have too many stitches, you should switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches – switch to smaller needles.

You will find the pattern below. Enjoy!

Be sure to check out my other sock knitting patterns.

RELATED POSTS:

• Lavender Lane socks | Knitting pattern
• Elevation yoga socks | Knitting pattern
• Holiday socks | Knitting pattern
• Knitting tutorial: how to knit basic socks
• What is the best yarn for knitting socks?

PIN this pattern for later!

SUPPLIES

Yarn: 2 skeins (50g – 210m/ 1.75oz – 230yds) of fingering weight (4ply) sock yarn in 2 colors.

I used Regia 4 ply sock yarn in Hell-Kamel (0017) as my main color and Burgundy (2747) as my contrasting color. It’s a classic sock yarn, that’s durable and machine washable.

Similar yarns:

• Lang Yarns Jawoll
• Lana Grossa Meilenweit 50
• DROPS Fabel

Needles: Set of five 2.5mm (US 1.5) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge. You can also use circular needles if you prefer the magic loop method.

I used 15cm (6″) double-pointed needles by Addi. They are shorter than the traditional 20cm (8”) and are easier to work with when there are only 15 stitches on each needle.

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Stitch Markers (optional)

Sock Blockers (optional)

ABBREVIATIONS

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 stitches together

Sl1p – slip 1 purlwise

Yo – Yarn over

Wyif – bring  yarn to the front of the work before you slip the stitch

Wyib – bring  yarn to the back of the work before you slip the stitch

Ws – wrong side

Rs – right side

CC – contrasting color

MC – main color

* * – Repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated number of times

CHART

When working from a chart you will read the instructions from right to left. Written instructions for the chart are also provided below.

Row 1: K6, P2, K4, K2tog, Yo, P2, Yo, Ssk, K4, P2, K6

Row 2: K6, P2, K4, Sl1p, K1, P2, K1, Sl1p, K4, P2, K6

Row 3: K6, P2, K3, K2tog, Yo, K1, P2, K1, Yo, Ssk, K3, P2, K6

Row 4: K6, P2, K3, Sl1p, K2, P2, K2, Sl1p, K3, P2, K6

Row 5: K6, P2, K2, K2tog, Yo, K2, P2, K2, Yo, Ssk, K2, P2, K6

Row 6: K6, P2, K2, Sl1p, K3, P2, K3, Sl1p, K2, P2, K6

Row 7: K6, P2, K1, K2Tog, Yo, K3, P2, K3, Yo, Ssk, K1, P2, K6

Row 8: K6, P2, K1, Sl1p, K4, P2, K4, Sl1p, K1, P2, K6

Row 9: K6, P2, K2tog, Yo, K4, P2, K4, Yo, Ssk, P2, K6

Row 10: K6, P2, Sl1p, K5, P2, K5, Sl1p, P2, K6

FREE DESERT SAFARI SOCK KNITTING PATTERN

You can Pin the pattern to your Pinterest board for later.

You can save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.

CUFF

With CC, cast on 60 stitches using the Long Tail Cast On method or the one you prefer.
TIP: Cast stitches onto 2 needles – this way the ribbing will be more elastic or go up a needle size.

Divide the stitches evenly between 4 needles (you will have 15 stitches on each needle). Be careful not to twist the stitches starting the first round.

Round 1: *K2, P2*

Repeat Round 1 until the piece measures approximately 4cm/1.5″ (or your desired length).

TIP: When working the 1st row knit the first 2 stitches using 2 strands of yarn (yarn from the ball and the tail) to avoid a gap. Also, knit the last and the first stitch on a needle a little tighter than the rest of the stitches.

LEG

Switch to MC. The lace pattern is worked over the top of the foot – on needles 1 and 2. Stockinette stitch is worked on the remaining needles.

Round 1: Work first row of chart, K to end of round

Repeat Round 1, working chart rows until you have worked 3 full repeats of the chart or until you have reached your desired length (ending with row 10 of the chart).

HEEL FLAP

The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the total number of all stitches in a slip stitch pattern. You will be working on needles 3 and 4 only – on 30 stitches (15 stitches on each needle). You can combine them onto one needle for the ease of knitting.

Turn your work to the WS so the inside of the sock is facing you. Switch to CC.

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P to end of row, Turn.

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, *K1, S1 purlwise wyib* fourteen times, K1, Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fourteen more times.

You will knit a total of 30 rows.

Heel turn

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P18, P2tog, Turn

Row 2 (RS): *S1 purlwise wyib, K1* four times, S1 knitwise wyib, Ssk, Turn

Row 3 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P8, P2tog, Turn

Row 4 (RS): *S1 purlwise wyib, K1* four times, S1 knitwise wyib, Ssk, Turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have only 10 stitches left.

HEEL GUSSET

Switch to MC, resume working in the round.

With the right side facing, with the needle holding 10 heel stitches pick up 15 slipped stitches along the edge of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch between the heel flap and the instep to avoid a gap – you will pick up 16 stitches. This will be the first needle now.

Needle 2 and 3 (the instep): First row of chart

With a free needle – this will be needle 4 – pick up 1 extra stitch between the heel flap and the instep to avoid a gap and 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap – you will pick up 16 stitches. With the same needle knit the first 5 stitches from the first needle. This will be the new beginning of the round.

Now you have the following number of stitches on each needle:

Needle 1: 21 stitches

Needle 2: 15 stitches

Needle 3: 15 stitches

Needle 4: 21 stitches

HEEL DECREASE

You will decrease the heel stitches on needles 1 and 4 from 21 stitches to 15 stitches on each needle, the instep stitches on needles 2 and 3 will be worked in the established pattern.

Round 1:

Needle 1: K across

Needles 2 and 3: Second row of chart

Needle 4: K across

Round 2:

Needle 1: K before last 3 sts, K2tog, K1

Needles 2 and 3: Next row of chart

Needle 4: K1, Ssk, K to end of round

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 working chart rows until you have 15 stitches on each needle again.

FOOT

Round 1: Work next row of chart, K to end of round

Continue working in the round until the foot of the sock is 4.5cm (1.8 inches) shorter than the desired foot length.

TOE DECREASE

You are going to decrease in every other round until you will have approximately half of the stitches left, and then – in every round.

Switch to CC.

Round 1: K across

Round 2: 

Needle 1: K before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 2: K1, Ssk, K to end of needle

Needle 3: K before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 4: K1, Ssk, K to end of needle

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 six more times (you will have 32 stitches left).

Now decrease in every round until you have 16 stitches left:

Needle 1: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 2: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Needle 3: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 4: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Knit all stitches (4 stitches) on needle 1 and graft the toe stitches using Kitchener Stitch, weave in all loose ends, and wet block.

I hope you enjoyed this sock knitting pattern, be sure to visit my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Pattern overview

The Lavender Lane socks are simple yet very elegant socks. 

These socks are knitted top down in the round on double-pointed needles (you can use circular needles and the magic loop technique).

The pattern features a 2-stitch cable, that starts from the very top of the sock and is located on the side of the leg. Cables are twisting in opposite directions.

The pattern differs for the right and left leg. Follow the instructions for both legs, unless otherwise stated.

Size: Women’s medium. The length of the foot is customizable.

Gauge: 28 stitches x 40 rows = 10x10cm (4 x 4″) in stockinette stitch after blocking.

You will find the free sock knitting pattern below.

Be sure to check out my other sock knitting patterns.

If you would like to get these cute “Handmade with love” printable labels for your projects, you can download them HERE for free.

You might also like:

• What is the best yarn for knitting socks?
• Knitting tutorial: how to knit basic socks
• Elevation yoga socks knitting pattern
• Sunset Safari socks knitting pattern
• Amber wrist warmers knitting pattern
  

PIN for later!

Supplies

• Yarn: Fingering weight (4ply) sock yarn (1 ball x 100g /400 yards or 2 balls x 50g/200 yards). I used REGIA PREMIUM Merino Yak. It’s 58% Wool, 28% Polyamide, 14% Yak.
• Needles: A set of five 2.5mm (US 1.5) double-pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge. You can also use circular needles if you prefer the magic loop method.
• Tapestry needle
• Cable needle (optional)
• Scissors
• Stitch markers (optional)
• Sock blockers (optional)

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

S – slip

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

P2tog – purl 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 stitches together

Wyif – bring  yarn to the front of the work before you slip the stitch

Wyib – bring  yarn to the back of the work before you slip the stitch

Ws – wrong side

Rs – right side

* * – Repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated number of times

FREE LAVENDER LANE SOCKS KNITTING PATTERN

You can Pin the pattern to your Pinterest boards for later.

You can save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.

CUFF

CO 60 stitches using the Long Tail Cast On method or the one you prefer.

TIP: Cast stitches onto 2 needles – this way the ribbing will be more elastic.

Divide the stitches evenly between 4 needles (you will have 15 stitches on each needle). Be careful not to twist the stitches starting the first round.

RIGHT LEG

Rounds 1-3: *K2, P2*

Round 4: K2, P2, C1B, P2, *K2, P2*

LEFT LEG

Rounds 1-3:  *K2, P2*

Round 4: *K2, P2* six times, C1F, P2, *K2, P2*

Repeat Rounds 1 to 4 three more times until the piece measures approximately 4cm/1.5″ (or the desired length).

TIP: When working the 1st row knit the first 2 stitches using 2 strands of yarn (yarn from the ball and the tail) to avoid loose stitches. Also, knit the last and the first stitch on a needle a little tighter than the rest.

LEG

RIGHT LEG

Rounds 1-3: K2, P2, K2, P2, Knit to end of round

Round 4: K2, P2, C1B, P2, Knit to end of round

LEFT LEG

Rounds 1-3: K22, P2, K2, P2, Knit to end of round

Round 4: K22, P2, C1F, P2, Knit to end of round

Repeat Rounds 1 to 4 twelve more times until the piece measures approximately 13cm/5.2″ (or the desired length).

Heel flap

The heel flap is worked back and forth on half the total number of all stitches in a slip stitch pattern.

Turn your work to the wrong side and start working on needles 3 and 4. You will be working on 30 stitches (15 stitches on each needle) and you can combine them onto one needle for the ease of knitting.

BOTH LEGS

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P to end of row, Turn.

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, *K1, S1 purlwise wyib* fourteen times, K1, Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fourteen more times.

You will knit a total of 30 rows.

Heel turn

BOTH LEGS

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P18, P2tog, Turn

Row 2 (RS): *S1 purlwise wyib, K1* four times, S1 knitwise wyib, Ssk, Turn

Row 3 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P8, P2tog, Turn

Row 4 (RS): *S1 purlwise wyib, K1* four times, S1 knitwise wyib, Ssk, Turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have only 10 stitches left.

Heel Gusset

Work in the round again.

RIGHT LEG

Needle 4 (now holds 10 stitches of the heel): Pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the heel flap and the instep) to avoid a gap – you will pick up 16 stitches

Needle 1 (the instep): K2, P2, K2, P2, Knit to end of needle

Needle 2 (the instep): Knit to end of needle

Needle 3 (new needle): Pick up 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the instep and the heel flap) and 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap – you will pick up 16 stitches. With the same needle knit the first 5 stitches from needle 4 and leave them on needle 3.

Now you have the following number of stitches on each needle:

Needles 1 and 2: 15 stitches

Needle 3 and 4: 21 stitch

LEFT LEG

Needle 4 (now holds 10 stitches of the heel): Pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches to avoid a gap – you will pick up 16 stitches

Needle 1 (the instep): Knit to end of needle

Needle 2 (the instep): K7, P2, K2, P2, K2,

Needle 3 (new needle): Pick up 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches and 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap – you will pick up 16 stitches. With the same needle knit the first 5 stitches from needle 4 and leave them on needle 3.

Now you have the following number of stitches on each needle:

Needles 1 and 2: 15 stitches

Needle 3 and 4: 21 stitch

HEEL DECREASE

You will need to decrease the stitches on needles 3 and 4 (from 21 stitches to 15 stitches on each), needles 1 and 2 are worked in pattern.

The new round begins on needle 4 – in the middle of the heel.

RIGHT LEG

Rounds 1, 2, 4, 5, 6: 

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: K2, P2, K2, P2, Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: Knit to end of needle

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Round 3:

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: K2, P2, C1B, P2, Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: Knit to end of needle

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

LEFT LEG

Rounds 1, 2, 4, 5, 6: 

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: K7, P2, K2, P2, K2

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Round 3:

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: K7, P2, C1F, P2, K2

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Now you have 15 stitches on each needle again.

FOOT

Continue working in the round until the foot of the sock is 4.5cm (1.8 inches) shorter than the desired foot length.

RIGHT LEG

Rounds 1-3: K17, P2, K2, P2, Knit to end of round

Round 4: K17, P2, C1B, P2, Knit to end of round

LEFT LEG

Rounds 1-3: K37, P2, K2, Knit to end of round

Round 4: K37, P2, C1F, Knit to end of round

RELATED POSTS: How to knit a square (Dutch) heel

TOE DECREASE

You are going to decrease in every other round until you will have approximately half of the stitches left, and then – in every round.

Round 1:

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Round 2:

All needles: Knit across

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 six more times (you will have 32 stitches left).

Now decrease in every round until you have 16 stitches left:

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 1: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Needle 2: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Knit all stitches (4 stitches) on needle 4 and sew the toe with the Kitchener stitch, weave in all loose ends.

I hope you enjoyed this sock knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

LEARN TO KNIT CUFF-DOWN SOCKS

In this step-by-step tutorial, I will show you how to knit a pair of very basic socks. This article is useful if you are a beginner or want to try out a different sock knitting technique.

This classic pair is knit cuff-down in the round with double-pointed needles and will fit size 37-38 (US 6.5-7.5/ UK 4-5).

Gauge: 10×10 cm ( 4×4 inches) 28 stitches x 40 rows

RELATED POSTS:

• What is the best yarn for knitting socks?
• Elevation yoga socks | Free knitting pattern
• Lavender Lane socks | Knitting pattern
• Sunset Safari socks | Knitting pattern
• How to start knitting?

PIN this for later!

Supplies

Yarn: 1 skein of fingering weight yarn. I recommend using superwash sock yarn, you can read about choosing yarn for socks HERE .

I used superwash wool by Alize, it’s 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide.

Needles: a set of five 2.5mm double point needles (US 1.5)

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Stitch Markers (optional)

Sock Blockers (optional)

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

S – slip

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

P2tog – purl 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 stitches together

Ws – wrong side

Rs – right side

* * – Repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated number of times

Cuff

Cast on 60 stitches with the Long Tail Cast On method or the one you prefer.
TIP: Cast stitches onto 2 needles – this way the ribbing will be more elastic. You can also go up a needle size.

Divide the stitches evenly between 4 needles (15 stitches on each needle).

Work *K2, P2* ribbing for 5-6cm (2-2.5 inches).

Be careful not to twist the stitches starting the first row. Needles are marked with numbers – yarn tail will be on needle one.
TIP: Knit the first 2 stitches using yarn from the ball and the tail to avoid loose stitches. Also, knit the last and the first stitch on a needle a little tighter.

Leg

Knit in stockinette for another 5-6cm (2-2.5inches).

Heel flap

The heel flap is worked on half of all stitches (in this case that is 30 stitches).

After you have finished the leg, turn your work to the wrong side and start knitting back and forth on needle 3 and 4 (needles 1 and 2 are on hold for a while). You can put stitches from needles 3 and 4 onto one needle – it will be more convenient. You might also want to put markers on the first and last stitches of the heel flap.

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise, P29
Row 2 (RS): S1 knitwise, K29

Work rows 1 and 2 15 times (a total of 30 rows).

Heel turn

The heel turn is worked on one needle in the short row method back and forth – on the same needle you were knitting the heel flap.

To form the heel we will need to decrease the number of stitches. In our mind, we need to split these 30 stitches into 3 equal parts (you might want to put markers between the parts) – that is 10 stitches in each part. We will be decreasing stitches in the left and right parts until only the center part (containing 10 stitches) remains. In each row, we are going to knit the last stitch from the center part together with the first stitch from either left or right side and we will be turning our work to the other side before we have finished the row. Turn your work to the wrong side and start decreasing.

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise, P18, P2tog, turn
Row 2 (RS): S1 knitwise, K8, ssk, turn
Row 3 (WS): S1 purlwise, P8, P2tog, turn
Row 4 (RS): S1 knitwise, K8, ssk, turn

Continue working rows 3 and 4 until you will have only 10 stitches left.

Decrease result – 10 stitches on the needle

Heel Gusset

At this point, you have 10 stitches on one needle, the right side is facing you. Now we are going to pick up the stitches along the side of our heel flap. We will pick up slip stitches one by one with our needle holding 10 stitches. Just insert the needle into the first stitch from the heel flap, grab the yarn and pull through – that’s a stitch.

Inserting the needle into the first stitch from the heel flap

Pick up 16 additional stitches from the heel flap. You will have 26 stitches on one needle (10 stitches + 16 stitches). This is the result you should have:

We are back to knitting in the round – you will see, that needles 1 and 2 are next in line to be worked – just knit the next 30 stitches (15 on needle 1 and 15 on needle 2). Now the other side of the heel flap is facing you – we need to pick up the same amount of stitches ( 16 stitches) from this side too. Take the needle number 3 that has no stitches at all and was on hold for all this time and pick up 16 stitches.

Now you have all 4 needles and we need to get back to 15 stitches on each needle. First, let’s move half of the heel’s stitches from the needle 4 (total – 10 stitches, half – 5) to the needle 3 – knit the first 5 stitches with it. This is how the heel will look:

Heel decrease

This is how our sock looks like:

Needle 1: 15 stitches
Needle 2: 15 stitches
Needle 3: 21 stitch
Needle 4: 21 stitch

We will be decreasing the number of stitches on needle 3 and 4 (from 21 to original 15).  Knit 1 round and start decreasing:

Needle 4: Knit before 2 last stitches, k2tog
Needle 1 and 2: Knit
Needle 3: Ssk, knit

Repeat this pattern until you will have 15 stitches on each needle:

Continue knitting in stockinette in the round until the foot of the sock is approximately  19.5cm (7.7 inches) or 4.5cm (1.8 inches) shorter than your foot length.

Toe decrease

When you are happy with the length of the sock you can start shaping the toe. To do so, we are going to be knitting 2 stitches together on each needle in each 2nd round until we have half of the stitches on our needles – a total of 32 stitches, 8 stitches on each needle.
Technically half of all stitches would be 30, but we need to have an even amount of stitches on all 4 needles, so we are going with 32.

Row 1:
Needle 1: K1, ssk, knit to end
Needle 2: Knit before 3 last stitches, k2tog, k1
Needle 3: K1, ssk, knit to end
Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, k2tog, k1

Row 2:
Knit across

Repeat this pattern until you have 8 stitches on each needle:

Continue decreasing stitches in EACH round until you have 4 stitches on each needle:

Distribute 8 top stitches on one needle and 8 bottom stitches on another one:

Finish off with Kitchener Stitch.

Yay, a finished sock! Trust me, when you will get the hang of the process, it will be a fast knit (depends on your chosen pattern, of course). And now back to work – the second sock ain’t gonna knit itself!

I hope you enjoyed this sock knitting pattern! Be sure to check out my sock knitting patterns.

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella!