Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

LEARN TO KNIT SQUARE OR DUTCH SOCK HEEL

There are many different sock heels and their variations, but the Square or Dutch heel is my personal favorite. It is basically what it sounds like: a square heel with a rectangular cap. It has a very nice fit and is really easy to work – there is literally no counting to be done after the setup!

I also prefer to reinforce my heel using a slip stitched pattern (both the heel flap and the cap) and it works great with this heel type. It feels comfortable and the socks last longer this way.

For this example, I’m using Regia 4-Ply yarn and 2.5mm double-pointed needles by Addi.

SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE TECHNIQUE

The idea behind the Square heel is the following:

Heel flap – work back and forth on half the total number of all stitches.

Heel turn – knit in short rows on the central third of the stitches. At the end of each row knit the last center stitch together with the next stitch. Repeat until there are only center stitches left.

Heel gusset – work in the round again. Pick up stitches along the edge of the heel flap and decrease them in every round until you have the original number of stitches.

Heel flap

The heel flap is worked on half the total number of all stitches. In this example the total number of stitches is 60, so the heel is worked on 30 stitches. The remaining half (that’s 30 stitches of the instep) is left on hold for now.

The heel is worked on the last two needles –  3 and 4. You can transfer the heel stitches onto one needle for the ease of knitting.

Now work back and forth in stockinette. You will begin on the wrong side, end on the right side.

The total number of rows worked should be equal to the number of stitches of the heel. The heel is worked on 30 stitches, so that’s 30 rows.

HEEL FLAP PATTERN:

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P to end of row, Turn.

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K to end of row, Turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fourteen more times.

HEEL TURN

Now to the heel turn, this is the step where the cap is formed.

First, divide the stitches into 3 equal parts. In this example, 30 stitches divided by 3 is 10 stitches in each part. You can also place stitch markers between the parts.

Begin on the wrong side, end on the right side.

(Setup) Row 1 (WS): Slip the first stitch and purl to the last stitch of the central part (before the second marker). You can remove the marker now.

Purl the last stitch of the center part and the first stitch from the side part together.

Turn your work.

(Setup) Row 2 (RS): Slip the first stitch and knit to the last stitch of the central part (before the marker). You can remove the marker now.

Knit the last stitch of the center part and the first stitch from the side part together.

Turn your work.

Now you can see the center part forming clearly and you don’t even need the markers. Continue to work the center stitches, at the end of each row knit or purl the last center stitch together with the next stitch until there are only center stitches left.

HEEL TURN PATTERN:

Row 1 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P18, P2tog, Turn

Row 2 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K8, Ssk, Turn

Row 3 (WS): S1 purlwise wyif, P8, P2tog, Turn

Row 4 (RS): S1 purlwise wyib, K8, Ssk, Turn

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until there are only center stitches left.

What if the number of stitches can’t be divided into 3 equal parts? Not a problem, the important thing is for the side parts to have an equal amount of stitches:

• If you have 1 extra stitch – add it to the center part. For example, if you have a total of 62 stitches, then you are working the heel flap on 31 stitches. Divide 31 into 3 parts and you will have 10/11/10.
• If you have 2 extra stitches – add them to the side parts. For example, if you have a total of 52 stitches, then you are working the heel flap on 26 stitches. Divide 34 into 3 parts and you will have 9/8/9.

Heel Gusset

The gusset is worked in the round again.

Needle 4 (now holds 10 stitches of the heel): Pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap and 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the heel flap and the instep) to avoid a gap – you will pick up 16 stitches

Needle 1 and 2 (the instep): Knit to end of needle

Needle 3 (new needle): Pick up 1 extra stitch in the ladder between the stitches (between the instep and the heel flap) and 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap – you will pick up 16 stitches. With the same needle knit the first 5 stitches from needle 4 and leave them on needle 3.

Now you have the following number of stitches on each needle:

Needles 1 and 2: 15 stitches

Needle 3 and 4: 21 stitch

At this point, you will need to decrease the stitches on needles 3 and 4 (from 21 stitches to 15 stitches on each), needles 1 and 2 are worked in pattern.

The new round begins on needle 4 – in the middle of the heel.

Needle 4: Knit before 3 last stitches, K2tog, K1

Needles 1 and 2: Knit to end of needle

Needle 3: K1, Ssk, Knit to end of needle

Repeat decreases in every round until you a the original number of stitches.

So this is how the heel looks when the gusset is finished and a couple of rows are knit in stockinette.

I hope you found the Dutch sock heel tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

HOW TO CHOOSE YARN FOR SOCKS?

Yarn plays a very important role in any knitting project. It affects both the knitting process and the finished result.

Will your new socks fit? Will the size be right? Will you be satisfied with the pair you have spent hours knitting? The answers to these questions highly depend on your chosen yarn and it’s content.

When I just started knitting, I didn’t pay much attention to the fiber the yarn is made from. I just choose the one that looked nice. Not the best criteria, right? So poor yarn choice led to obvious results – disappointment.

For example, I knitted a pair of wool socks that ended up in the trash in 2 just weeks – they tore, and I couldn’t understand why. When I did some research I understood, that pure wool is not the best option for socks. Since then I’ve started to pay more attention to fiber.

I’m no yarn expert, but I’ve learned some useful things, that I would like to share with you.

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We want our socks to be pretty and cozy, but we need to remember that, first of all, they need to be durable and stretch well. Sadly, not every yarn that looks soft and warm will serve our purpose. We need to look at the content of yarn to determine whether the fiber suits us or not.

Delicate fibers

Luxurious fibers, such as cashmere or silk may be amazing, beautiful, and what not (definitely expensive), but you don’t knit your socks from 100% delicate fiber yarn. Simply because the finished item will not serve long.

These socks will never survive daily usage and are not worth all the hard work. Delicate fibers can be used in yarn blends in small amounts, but not on their own. You can either buy a blend or make it yourself by adding nylon or acrylic fibers for durability.

If you really want to pamper your feet with cashmere, then you can knit socks to sleep in. This way they won’t be exposed to friction that much and you will be super comfortable falling asleep on the colder nights.

Linen, cotton, bamboo

Same as with delicate fibers, it is not recommended to knit from pure linen, cotton, or bamboo. Although they are natural and breathable, they are not as elastic as we need.

These socks will lose their shape quite fast– they will not hug your foot and will tend to droop. The ribbing will also be less stretchy than you’d like. Yarn blend is the best option, if you want to knit summer socks – cotton and nylon would be a great combination.

Synthetic fibers

When it comes to durability nylon and acrylic fibers are way more durable than the natural ones. That’s why you will see them in many yarn blends – they ensure your socks won’t get holes too quickly, but… these fibers aren’t natural. Pure synthetics will not provide warmth and can make your feet sweat.

Wool

This is the most widely used fiber for knitting socks. It is natural, has the best bounce and memory, keeps your feet warm, absorbs moisture. Amazing right?

Unfortunately, there are also downsides – pure wool isn’t that durable (remember my two-weeks-old socks?), can feel scratchy and some people are allergic to it. Once again – blends are a great option.

A wool and nylon blend is a very good choice for classic socks. Many knitters who are fond of pure wool add a nylon string when knitting the heel for durability.

Sock yarn

Yep, you can find yarn balls that are labeled … sock yarn.

This yarn is not made from one specific fiber but is a special blend developed for socks. Isn’t it great? A pre-made blend of different fibers to give you the best results.

Usually, it is a mix of wool and synthetics that results in warm, elastic, and durable yarn. It is common to add more fibers to the blend. Common additions are angora, alpaca, or something similar to make the yarn more delicate or warm, because in the end – it all goes down to personal preferences.

Another nice thing about sock yarn – you will likely see the word “superwash” on the label. It means you can wash your socks in a washing machine. Technically speaking wool in the yarn was processed in a special way and will not felt!

Let’s sum up this little fiber talk:
– Sock yarn is a safe choice for durable and elastic socks;
– Wool is the most popular sock fiber but should be used in a blend with a more durable fiber;
– Delicate fibers are great in small amounts in blends and they make great bed socks;
– Cotton is good for summer but still better to choose a blend.

I hope you found this post on how to choose the right yarn for socks useful! Be sure to check out my sock knitting patterns.

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.