spring/summer Archives - Mirella Moments

Summer breeze top knitting pattern

Mirella — Wed, 02 Aug 2023 16:44:24 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Top overview

The summer breeze top is a simple drop-shoulder top with no shaping. It is designed to be loose fitting with 10-15cm (4-6) inches of positive ease. You can wear it as is or over a tank top.

The top is worked in two separate pieces from the bottom up. You will knit two identical rectangles and sew them together at the shoulders and at the sides. Circular knitting needles are used to accommodate the number of stitches.

The design features alternating garter stitch and eyelets on a stockinette background. This pattern is great if you want to knit your first top.

You can add a few extra pattern repeats to turn this top into a tunic.

Sizes: XS – (S) – M – (L) – XL

Actual bust circumference: 71-76 (81-86) 91.5-96.5 (101.5-106.5) 111.5-117cm / 28-30 (32-34) 36-38 (40-42) 44-46″

Finished bust circumference: 86 – (96) – 106.5 -(116.5) – 126.5cm / 34 – (38) – 42 – (46) – 50″

Length: 57cm (22 ^1/4″)

Gauge: 18 stitches x 32 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″) in pattern after blocking.

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this top you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~300g (10.5oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used DROPS Bell in the color “Mauve” (16). It is a blend of 53% cotton, 33% viscose, and 14% linen.

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: 4mm (US6) circular knitting needles with an 80cm (32″) long cord.
Notions:
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

Sl – slip one stitch knitwise with yarn at back

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit two stitches together

Yo – yarn over

* * – repeat from * to * stated amount of times

TOP KNITTING PATTERN

Make two.

Cast on

CO 80 (88) 98 (106) 114 sts using the long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Body

Row 1-7: Sl1, K to last st, P1.

Row 8: Sl1, K3, P to last 4 sts, K3, P1.

Row 9: Sl1, K to last st, P1.

Row 10: Sl1, K3, P to last 4 sts, K3, P1.

Row 11: Sl1, K3, *K2tog, Yo* to last 4 sts, K3, P1.

Row 12: Sl1, K3, P to last 4 sts, K3, P1.

Row 13: Sl1, K to last st, P1.

Row 14: Sl1, K3, P to last 4 sts, K3, P1.

Repeat rows 1-14 eleven more times (a total of 12 pattern repeats).

Repeat rows 1-7 one more time.

Bind off

Bind off sts knitwise.

Step 1: Work 2, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Sew shoulder seams, leaving a 26cm (10 ^1/4″) neck opening.

Sew side seams from the lower edge, leaving a 21.5 (21.5) 23 (23) 23cm / 8.5 (8.5) 8.5 (9) 9″ opening for the armholes.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

I always wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel, and roll it up to remove moisture.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this top knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Wheat Headband knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 23 Jun 2023 06:35:00 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Headband overview

The Wheat Headband is a cute summer accessory. It is knit with cotton yarn and is very lightweight. Just a small amount of yarn is needed to knit this headband.

The pattern features a lace stitch on a reverse stockinette background with garter stitch edging. The pattern is a four-row repeat.

The headband is tied at the back of the head with i-cord ties. They are perfect for adjusting the fitting!

This headband is made in one piece. You will begin by knitting an i-cord tie, then you will gradually increase the number of stitches to reach the desired width of the headband. The increases are designed to blend with the pattern. Next, you will knit a long rectangle in the lace pattern. When you will reach the desired length, you will decrease the number of stitches and you will knit the second tie.

Finished size: 5.5cm (2.15″) wide and 41cm (16 ^1/4“) long without ties. Each tie is 28cm (11”) long.

Gauge is not important for this project.

Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~15g (0.5oz) fine weight cotton yarn (category #2). I used Schachenmayr Catania in the color “Sun-kissed” (00437).

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: two 3mm (US 2.5) double-pointed needles or circular needles.
Notions:
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit two stitches together

P2tog – purl two stitches together

Ssk – slip two stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

M1R – make one right (right-leaning increase). Use the left needle to pick up the strand between two stitches coming from the back and knit through the front leg

M1L – make one left (left-leaning increase). Use the left needle to pick up the strand between two stitches coming from the front and knit through the back leg

Yo – yarn over

Rs – right side

Ws – wrong side

WHEAT HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

CO on 2 sts using the long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer. Do not turn.

First i-cord tie

Work the i-cord:

Knit 2 (do not turn). With the RS still facing you, slide the stitches to the right end of the needle, and knit them (since you didn’t turn the needle the working yarn will be coming from the last st on the needle, not the first as usual).

Continue knitting 2 stitches without turning your work until the tie measures ~28 cm (11″) or your desired length.

Do not turn.

Increases

After you knit the tie, knit in rows turning the work as normal, gradually increasing the number of sts. You will increase two sts every four rows.

Row 1: K1, M1R, K1 (3 sts)

Row 2: K1, P1, K1

Row 3: K all

Row 4: K1, P1, K1

Row 5: K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K1 (5 sts)

Row 6: K2, P1, K2

Row 7: K all

Row 8: K2, P1, K2

Row 9: K2, M1R, K1, M1L, K2 (7 sts)

Row 10: K3, P1, K3

Row 11: K2, P1, K1, P1, K2

Row 12: K3, P1, K3

Row 13: K2, P1, M1R, K1, M1L, P1, K2 (9 sts)

Row 14: K4, P1, K4

Row 15: K2, P2, K1, P2, K2

Row 16: K4, P1, K4

Row 17: K2, P2, M1R, K1, M1L, P2, K2 (11 sts)

Row 18: K4, P3, K4

Row 19: K2, P2, K3, P2, K2

Row 20: K4, P3, K4

Row 21: K2, P2, K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K1, P2, K2 (13 sts)

Row 22: K4, P5, K4

Row 23: K2, P2, K5, P2, K2

Row 24: K4, P5, K4

Headband

Row 1: K2, P2, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, P2, K2

Row 2: K4, P5, K4

Row 3: K2, P2, K5, P2, K2

Row 4: K4, P5, K4

Repeat rows 1-4 twenty-three more times (a total of twenty-four repeats).

End the last pattern repeat with row two.

Decreases

Row 1: K2, P2, K5, P2, K2

Row 2: K4, P5, K4

Row 3: K2, P2, K2tog, K1, Ssk, P2, K2 (11 sts)

Row 4: K4, P3, K4

Row 5: K2, P2, K3, P2, K2

Row 6: K4, P3, K4

Row 7: K2, P1, P2tog, K1, P2tog, P1, K2 (9 sts)

Row 8: K4, P1, K4

Row 9: K2, P2, K1, P2, K2

Row 10: K4, P1, K4

Row 11: K2, P2tog, K1, P2tog, K2 (7 sts)

Row 12: K3, P1, K3

Row 13: K2, P1, K1, P1, K2

Row 14: K3, P1, K3

Row 15: K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1 (5sts)

Row 16: K2, P1, K2

Row 17: K all

Row 18: K2, P1, K2

Row 19: K2tog, K1, K2tog (3 sts)

Row 20: K1, P1, K1

Row 21: K all

Row 22: K1, P, K1

Row 23: K2tog, K1 (2 sts)

Do not turn.

Second i-cord tie

Work the second i-cord tie just as you knit the first one. Knit until it measures ~28 cm (11″) or your desired length.

Do not turn.

Bind off

Bind off sts knitwise:

K2, bring the first st over the second one. Cut the yarn leaving a 10cm / 5″ tail. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet block the finished item. This will transform the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Amethyst headband knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 16 Jun 2023 07:08:03 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Headband overview

The Amethyst Headband is a beautiful spring accessory. It is knit in a blend of merino wool and cotton, which is perfect for spring.

The headband is knitted flat (back and forth) and seamed at the back. The design features a lace stitch on a reverse stockinette background with garter stitch edging. The pattern is a four-row repeat, so the length of the headband is really easy to customize.

This headband is very easy to make. You will knit a long rectangle until you reach the desired length and sew the edges together.

This quick knitting project requires only one small ball of yarn.

You will find the knitting instructions below.

Measurements: To fit women’s medium (54-56 cm/ 21 ^3/4– 22″).

If you are knitting for a smaller/bigger circumference just knit fewer/ more rows.

If you want to make the headband narrower/ wider simply work fewer/ more stitches in the garter stitch or reverse stockinette stitch sections.

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

Finished size: 7cm (2.75″) wide and 23cm (9″) long.

Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:

Iris Headband knitting pattern
Folgate Hat knitting pattern
Amber Wrist Warmers knitting pattern
Yarrow Scarf knitting pattern
Blush Wrap knitting pattern

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~20g (0.7 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Cotton Merino from Drops in the color lilac (04).

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Yo – yarn over

AMETHYST HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

CO on 15 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Headband

Row 1: K2, P2, K1, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, K1, P2, K2

Row 2: K4, P7, K4

Row 3: K2, P2, K2tog, Yo, K3, Yo, Ssk, P2, K2

Row 4: K4, P7, K4

Repeat rows 1 and 4 until the piece measures ~49 cm (19″) or your desired length.

Bind off

Bind off sts knitwise.

Step 1: Work 2, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 20cm / 8″ tail to seam the headband. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Sew

With right sides facing each other, whip stitch the ends together

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

I always wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Midsummer headband knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 09 Jun 2023 07:36:04 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Headband overview

The Midsummer Headband is a lovely accessory to wear this summer. It is very lacy and it will keep the flyaways in place.

The headband is knit with cotton yarn and is lightweight and comfortable. If you have some cotton leftover yarn, use it to knit this headband.

The pattern features a lace stitch with i-cord ties to tie at the back of the head. The ties are perfect for adjusting the fitting!

This headband is made in one piece. You will begin by knitting an i-cord tie, next you will work in garter stitch gradually increasing the number of stitches to reach the desired width of the headband. Then you will knit a long rectangle in the lace pattern. When you will reach the desired length, you will work in garter stitch again and decrease the number of stitches. Then you will knit the second tie.

Finished size: 5.5cm (2.15″) wide and 42cm (16.5″) long without ties. Each tie is 28cm (11″) long.

Gauge: 3cm (1.2″) x 2.3cm (0.9″) – one lace repeat.

Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~15g (0.5oz) fine weight yarn (category #2). I used Schachenmayr Catania in the color “Rose gold” (00433).

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: two 3mm (US 2.5) double-pointed needles or circular needles.
Notions:
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Kfb – knit into the front and back of a stitch

Yo – yarn over

Rs – right side

Ws – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

MIDSUMMER HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

CO on 2 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

First i-cord tie

Work the i-cord:

Knit 2 (DO NOT TURN!). With the RS still facing you, slide the stitches to the right end of the needle, and knit them (since you didn’t turn the needle the working yarn will be coming from the last st on the needle, not the first as usual).

Continue knitting 2 stitches without turning your work until the tie measures ~28 cm (11″) or your desired length.

Garter stitch section (increases)

After you have knit the tie, TURN the work and continue knitting in rows gradually increasing the number of sts:

Row 1: Kfb, Kfb (4 sts)

Row 2-4: K all

Row 5: K1, Kfb2, K1 (6sts)

Row 6-8: K all

Row 9: K1, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1 (8sts)

Row 10-12: K all

Row 13: K1, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1 (10sts)

Row 14-16: K all

Row 17: K1, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K1 (12sts)

Row 18-20: K all

Row 21: K1, Kfb, K8, Kfb, K1 (14sts)

Row 22-24: K all

Body of the headband

Row 1: K2, P2, K3, K2tog, K1, Yo, P2, K2

Row 2: K4, P6, K4

Row 3: K2, P2, K2, K2tog, K1, Yo, K1, P2, K2

Row 4: K4, P6, K4

Row 5: K2, P2, K1, K2tog, K1, Yo, K2, P2, K2

Row 6: K4, P6, K4

Row 7: K2, P2, K2tog, K1, Yo, K3, P2, K2

Row 8: K4, P6, K4

Repeat rows 1-8 12 more times (a total of 13 repeats).

End the last pattern repeat with row 6 (RS).

Garter stitch section (decreases)

Row 1 (WS): K all

Row 2: K all

Row 3: K all

Row 4: K1, Ssk, K8, K2tog, K1 (12sts)

Row 5-7: K all

Row 8: K1, Ssk, K6, K2tog, K1 (10 sts)

Row 9-11: K all

Row 12: K1, Ssk, K4, K2tog, K1 (8 sts)

Row 13-15: K all

Row 16: K1, Ssk, K2, K2tog, K1 (6 sts)

Row 17-19: K all

Row 20: K1, Ssk, K2tog, K1 (4 sts)

Row 21-23: K all

Row 24: Ssk, K2tog (2 sts)

Second i-cord tie

Work the second i-cord tie just as you knit the first one. Knit until it measures ~28 cm (11″) or your desired length.

Bind off

Bind off sts knitwise:

K2, bring the first st over the second one. Cut the yarn leaving a 10cm / 5″ tail. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet block the finished item. This will transform the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Coastal headband knitting pattern

Mirella — Fri, 02 Jun 2023 06:16:27 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Headband overview

The Coastal Headband is a cute spring accessory. It is worked in a blend of merino wool and cotton.

This simple pattern is a two-row repeat, so the length of the headband is really easy to customize.

The headband is knitted flat (back and forth), and the edges of the headband are seamed together creating an x-twist. The slipped stitches along the edges add a neat look.

This quick knitting project requires only one small ball of yarn.

You will find the knitting instructions below.

Measurements: To fit women’s medium (54-56 cm/ 21 ^3/4– 22″).

If you are knitting for a smaller/bigger circumference just knit fewer/ more rows.

If you want to make the headband narrower/ wider simply work fewer/ more stitches in the garter stitch or stockinette stitch sections.

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

Finished size: 8.5 (3.5″) wide and 24.5cm (9.6″) long.

Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~25g (0.9 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Cotton Merino from Drops in the color sea green (29).

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

Sl wyif – slip st purlwise with yarn in front

Rs – right side

Ws – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

COASTAL HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

CO on 19 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Headband

Row 1: Sl wyif, K2, K2tog, Yo, K2, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, K2, Yo, Ssk, K3.

Row 2: Sl wyif, K2, P13, K3.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the piece measures ~50 cm (19.5″) or your desired length.

Bind off

Bind off sts knitwise.

Step 1: Work 2, bring the first st over the second one.

Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 30-40cm / 12″ – 16” tail to seam the headband. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Twist

Step 1: With the right side facing you, fold each edge in half so they look like a “V”.

Insert one edge into the other edge HALFWAY. Make sure, that the yarn tail is on the outside, and not in between the layers.

Step 2: Sew the overlapping edges together, make sure to sew through all 4 layers.

Step 3: Take the open holes and pinch them together over the sewn part, and sew them together.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet block the finished item. This will transform the stitches, making them look smoother and neater.

Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.

I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Dahlia Shawl knitting pattern

Mirella — Tue, 13 Sep 2022 08:43:33 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Shawl overview

The Dahlia Shawl will provide additional warmth on cooler summer evenings. It is knit in a blend of merino wool and cotton, which is great for spring and summer garments.

This is a top-down triangle shawl. The design features eyelet sections on a stockinette stitch background.

You will begin by knitting the garter tab. Next, you will work the body of the shawl. The triangle shape is created by making four yarn over increases every other row. They are made on both sides of the central stitch and along the top garter stitch border. When you are happy with the length of the shawl, you will work the garter stitch border, and bind off the stitches.

Finished size after blocking: 102 cm (40^1/4″) deep and 204cm (80^1/2″) wide.

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

Be sure to check out my other shawl knitting patterns.

Supplies

To knit this shawl you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 400g (14.2oz) light worsted yarn (category #3). I used Drops Cotton Merino in the color vanilla (17). It’s a blend of merino superwash wool (52%) and cotton (48%). If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Yo – yarn over

PM – place marker

SM – slip marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

DAHLIA SHAWL KNITTING PATTERN

Garter tab cast-on

Begin by knitting the garter tab cast-on:

Step 1: CO 3 sts using the long-tail cast-on. Place a removable marker in each of the 3 cast-on stitches.

Step 2: Knit 6 rows, do not turn.

Step 3: Rotate the piece 90 degrees clockwise. Pick up, and knit 3 stitches along the edge. You have 6 stitches on the needle.

Step 4: Rotate the piece 90 degrees clockwise again, pick up and knit 3 cast-on stitches, remove the markers. You have 9 stitches on the needle.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to knit the garter tab cast-on here.

Body

The body of the shawl is worked in eyelet and stockinette stitch sections.

You will work 6 rows in stockinette stitch, 2 rows in eyelet pattern, 6 rows in stockinette stitch, and 6 rows in eyelet pattern.

The first and last three stitches are always knit on both sides to create a garter stitch border.

Stockinette stitch:

Row 1 (RS, setup row): K3, Yo, K1, Yo, PM, K1, PM, Yo, K1, Yo, K3.

Row 2 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 3: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 4: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 5: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 6: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Eyelet pattern 1:

Row 7: K3, Yo, *K2tog, Yo* to one sts before marker, K1, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K1, *Yo, Ssk* to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 8: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Stockinette stitch:

Row 9: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 10: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 11: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 12: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 13: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 14: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Eyelet pattern 2:

Row 15: K3, Yo, *K2tog, Yo* to one sts before marker, K1, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K1, *Yo, Ssk* to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 16: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 17: K3, Yo, *K2tog, Yo* to one sts before marker, K1, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K1, *Yo, Ssk* to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 18: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 19: K3, Yo, *K2tog, Yo* to one sts before marker, K1, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K1, *Yo, Ssk* to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 20: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Continue in the established pattern and work the four sections (stockinette stitch, eyelet 1, stockinette stitch, eyelet 2) six more times (a total of seven times) or until you reach your desired length.

Work one more stockinette section (six rows of stockinette stitch).

Border

The border is worked in garter stitch.

Row 1 (RS): K3, Yo, P to marker, Yo, K1, Yo, P to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 2 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times (a total of six rows).

Bind off

Bind off purlwise on the right side:

Step 1: K2, bring the first stitch over the second one.

Step 2: K1, bring the first stitch over the second one

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet or steam blocking the finished shawl. This process transforms the stitches, and makes them look smoother and neater.

Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel, and roll it up to remove moisture.

Pin the shawl to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look neat after blocking.

I hope you have enjoyed this shawl knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Lilac Shawl knitting pattern

Mirella — Thu, 11 Aug 2022 10:27:50 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Shawl overview

The Lilac shawl is a top-down triangle shawl.

There are four yarn over increases every other row. They are made on both sides of the central stitch and along the top garter stitch border.

The design features eyelet stripes worked on a stockinette stitch background alternating with garter stitch ridges.

Finished size after blocking: 86cm (34^3/4″) deep and 172cm (69 ^1/2″) wide.

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

Be sure to check out my other shawl knitting patterns.

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

SUPPLIES

To knit this shawl you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 300g (10.5 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Drops Cotton Merino in lavender (23). It’s a blend of merino superwash wool (52%) and cotton (48%). If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: 4mm (US6/UK8) circular knitting needles with a minimum 80cm/32″ long cord.
3 removable stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Yo – yarn over

PM – place marker

SM – slip marker

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

LILAC SHAWL KNITTING PATTERN

Garter tab cast-on

Begin by knitting the garter tab cast-on:

Step 1: CO 3 sts using the long-tail cast-on. Place a removable marker in each of the 3 cast-on stitches.

Step 2: Knit 6 rows, do not turn.

Step 3: Rotate the piece 90 degrees clockwise. Pick up, and knit 3 stitches along the edge. You have 6 stitches on the needle.

Step 4: Rotate the piece 90 degrees clockwise again, pick up and knit 3 cast-on stitches, remove the markers. You have 9 stitches on the needle.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to knit the garter tab cast-on here.

Body

The body of the shawl is worked in eyelet and garter stitch sections. The first and last three stitches are always knit on both sides to create a garter stitch border.

Eyelet pattern

Row 1 (RS, setup row): K3, Yo, K1, Yo, PM, K1, PM, Yo, K1, Yo, K3.

Row 2 (WS): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 3: K3, Yo, *K2tog, Yo* to one sts before marker, K1, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K1, *Yo, Ssk* to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 4: K3, P to last 3 sts, K3.

Row 5: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Garter stitch

Row 6: K to marker, SM, P1, SM, K to end.

Row 7: K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, SM, K1, SM, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Row 8: K to marker, SM, P1, SM, K to end.

Repeat rows 3 – 8 twenty-six more times (a total of twenty-seven times) or until you reach your desired length. Work the eyelet pattern (rows 3 – 5) one more time.

Border

The border is worked in garter stitch.

Row 1 (WS): K to marker, P1, K to end.

Row 2 (RS): K3, Yo, K to marker, Yo, K1, Yo, K to last 3 sts, Yo, K3.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 two more times (a total of six rows).

Bind off

Bind off knitwise on the wrong side:

Step 1: K2, bring the first stitch over the second one.

Step 2: K1, bring the first stitch over the second one

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Finishing

Weave in all loose ends.

Wet or steam blocking the finished shawl. This process transforms the stitches, and makes them look smoother and neater.

Pin the shawl to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look neat after blocking.

I hope you have enjoyed this shawl knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Blush Wrap knitting pattern

Mirella — Sun, 17 Jul 2022 14:52:51 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

Wrap overview

The Blush Wrap is a great accessory to put around your shoulders on cool spring or summer evenings.

This cozy rectangular wrap is worked flat on circular needles.

The pattern features chevron and eyelet sections on a stockinette background. The sections are separated by rows of garter stitch. The first and last five stitches of every row form a garter stitch side border. The top and bottom borders are worked over ten rows in garter stitch.

I used a cotton and wool blend, that is perfect for spring and summer knitting projects.

Finished size after blocking: ~ 36cm/14” x 164cm/65”.

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

You might also like:

PIN this for later!

Supplies

To knit this wrap you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 300g (10.5 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Drops Cotton Merino in powder pink (o5). It’s a blend of merino superwash wool (52%) and cotton (48%). If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:

Needles: 4mm (US6/UK8) circular knitting needles with a minimum 80cm/32″ long cord. If you prefer straight knitting needles, you can knit with them.
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Abbreviations

CO – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Sk2p – slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over

Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together

Yo – yarn over

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

BLUSH WRAP KNITTING PATTERN

Cast on

CO on 71 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.

Bottom border

The bottom border is worked over 10 rows in garter stitch:

Rows 1-10: K all sts.

Body

The body is worked in sections with garter stitch side borders.

Stockinette stitch

Row 1, 3: K all sts

Row 2, 4: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5.

Chevron pattern

Row 5: K5, *K1, Yo, Ssk, K5, K2tog, Yo* repeat 5 more times, K6.

Row 6, 8, 10, 12: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5.

Row 7: K5, *K2, Yo, Ssk, K3, K2tog, Yo, K1* repeat 5 more times, K6.

Row 9: K5, *K3, Yo, Ssk, K1, K2tog, Yo, K2* repeat 5 more times, K6.

Row 11: K5, *K4, Yo, Sk2p, Yo, K3* repeat 5 more times, K6.

Stockinette stitch

Row 13, 15: K all sts

Row 14: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5.

Garter stitch

Row 16 – 18: K all sts

Stockinette stitch

Row 19: K all sts

Row 20: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5.

Eyelet pattern

Row 21: K5, *K1, K2tog, Yo* repeat 19 more times, K6.

Row 22: K5, P to last 5 sts, K5.

Stockinette stitch

Row 23: K all sts

Garter stitch

Row 24-26: K all sts

Repeat rows 1 – 26 14 more times.

Then repeat rows 1 -15 one more time (you will end the body of the wrap with a chevron section followed by a stockinette section).

Top border

The top border is worked as the bottom border over 10 rows in garter stitch:

Row 1-10: K all sts.

Bind off

Bind off knitwise:

Step 1 (WS): K2, bring the first stitch over the second one.

Step 2: K1, bring the first stitch over the second one

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Weave in all loose ends. Wet or steam block the wrap so that it lays flat.

I hope you have enjoyed this summer wrap knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.

Diamond blanket wrap | Knitting pattern

Mirella — Tue, 24 Aug 2021 16:39:26 +0000

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links and I may make a small commission on items purchased through links in this post at no extra cost to you. You can find out more in my Disclaimer.

BLANKET WRAP OVERVIEW

This wrap is perfect for cool summer evenings when you want to get cozy. I used cotton and merino yarn, which is great for spring and summer projects.

This wrap has a rectangle shape and it is knit flat in rows from the bottom up. The wrap has garter stitch borders on its sides and features a lace pattern in the middle – large diamonds and delicate lace stripes.

It uses circular needles in order to hold all of the stitches.

Finished size after blocking: ~ 67cm/26” x 186cm/73”

Gauge: 21 stitches x 28 rows = 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″ ) in stockinette after blocking.

You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!

SUPPLIES

To knit this wrap you will need the following supplies:

Yarn: ~ 520g (18.3 oz) DK / light worsted yarn (category #3).

I used a little over 11 balls of Drops Cotton Merino in the color off-white (o1). It’s a blend of merino superwash wool (52%) and cotton (48%).

If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are other yarn options:

Needles: 4mm (US6/UK8) circular knitting needles with a minimum 80cm/32″ long cord.
Tapestry needle
Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS

Co – cast on

St (s) – stitch (es)

K – knit

P – purl

Yo – yarn over

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

Ssk – slip, slip, knit 2 stitches together

Sk2p – slip 1 knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over knit 2 together

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times

DIAMOND BLANKET WRAP KNITTING PATTERN

You can Pin the pattern to your Pinterest board for later.

You can save the pattern to your Ravelry queue.

Cast on

Co 129 sts. I used a basic Long Tail cast on.

Bottom border

The bottom border is worked over 10 rows in garter stitch:

Rows 1-10: K all sts.

Body

The body consists of right and left borders, with a diamond and a lace pattern in between.

This might look a little intimidating, but the only changes happen in the diamond pattern. Border and lace patterns are a simple 2-row repeat.

Right border pattern: K4, K2tog, Yo, K3, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, K3, Yo, Ssk (19sts).

Left border pattern: K2tog, Yo, K3, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, K3, Yo, Ssk, K4 (19sts).

Diamond pattern (27sts):

Row 1: K13, Yo, Ssk, K12.

Row 3: K11, K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk, K11.

Row 5: K10, K2tog, Yo, K3, Yo, Ssk, K10.

Row 7: K9, K2tog, Yo, K5, Yo, Ssk, K9.

Row 9: K8, K2tog, Yo, K7, Yo, Ssk, K8.

Row 11: K7, K2tog, Yo, K9, Yo, Ssk, K7.

Row 13: K6, K2tog, Yo, K11, Yo, Ssk, K6.

Row 15: K5, K2tog, Yo, K13, Yo, Ssk, K5.

Row 17: K4, K2tog, Yo, K15, Yo, Ssk, K4.

Row 19: K3, K2tog, Yo, K17, Yo, Ssk, K3.

Row 21: K3, Yo, Ssk, K17, K2tog, Yo, K3.

Row 23: K4, Yo, Ssk, K15, K2tog, Yo, K4.

Row 25: K5, Yo, Ssk, K13, K2tog, Yo, K5.

Row 27: K6, Yo, Ssk, K11, K2tog, Yo, K6.

Row 29: K7, Yo, Ssk, K9, K2tog, Yo, K7.

Row 31: K8, Yo, Ssk, K7, K2tog, Yo, K8.

Row 33: K9, Yo, Ssk, K5, K2tog, Yo, K9.

Row 35: K10, Yo, Ssk, K3, K2tog, Yo, K10.

Row 37: K11, Yo, Ssk, K1, K2tog, Yo, K11.

Row 39: K12, Yo, Sk2p, Yo, K12.

Lace pattern: K2tog, Yo, K1, Yo, Ssk (5sts).

Row 1 (RS): Right border, *Row 1 of Diamond pattern, Lace pattern* repeat 1 more time, Row 1 of Diamond pattern, Left border.

Row 2 and all WS rows: K4, P until the last 4 stitches, K4.

Row 3: Right border, *Next row of Diamond pattern, Lace pattern* repeat 1 more time, Next row of Diamond pattern, Left border.

Row 4 and all WS rows: K4, P until the last 4 stitches, K4.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 18 more times to work a full diamond repeat. Continue in the established pattern until you have 13 diamond repeats.

You can work more or fewer repeats if you want to change the length of the wrap.

Work row 1 of the pattern one more time, so the last diamond has a finished look with a yarn over at its top.

Top border

The top border is worked as the bottom border over 10 rows in garter stitch:

Row 1-10: K all sts.

Bind off

Bind off knitwise:

Step 1 (WS): K2, bring the first stitch over the second one.

Step 2: K1, bring the first stitch over the second one

Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.

You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.

Weave in all loose ends. Wet or steam block the wrap so that it lays flat.

I hope you have enjoyed this summer blanket wrap knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!

Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.