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The Amber Cowl knitting pattern overview
The Amber cowl is worked in the round seamlessly.
The design features a combination of delicate lace stripes and slipped stitches.
You might also want to make a matching headband – The Amber Headband knitting pattern.
Finished size after blocking:
- Circumference: 54cm (21 1/4”)
- Height: 25cm (9.8″)
If you want to change the circumference of the cowl, cast on fewer/ more stitches. One pattern repeat is approx 6.8cm (2.7”) wide.
If you want to change the height of the cowl, knit fewer/ more rows.
Gauge: 14stitches x 4rows = one lace pattern repeat after blocking.
You will find the free knitting pattern below. Enjoy!
Be sure to check out my other cowl knitting patterns.
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- Cables and lace headband | Knitting pattern
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SUPPLIES
To knit this cowl you will need the following supplies:
- Yarn: ~ 85g (3 oz) medium weight yarn (category #4). I used Malabrigo Rios in the color camel (208). It’s 100% superwash merino wool. If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are other yarn options:
- Needles: 4.5mm (US7) 40cm (16”) circular knitting needles or size needed to obtain the gauge. You can also use circular needles with a longer cord if you prefer the magic loop method or a set of double-pointed needles.
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker (optional)
ABBREVIATIONS
CO – cast on
St (s) – stitch (es)
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
Ssk – slip 2 stitches knitwise, put them back on the left needle, knit through back loops together
Sl – slip st purlwise with yarn in back
Yo – yarn over
* * – repeat from * to * until the end of the row or the stated amount of times
COWL KNITTING PATTERN
Cast on
CO on 112 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.
Join in the round being careful not to twist the sts and place a marker. I prefer using the invisible join method:
Step 1: Cast on 112 + 1 extra st (a total of 113 sts).
Step 2: Slip the first st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.
Step 3: Bring the second st from the right needle over the top of the first st (the one, that we have passed from the left needle)
Step 4: Put that slipped st from the right needle back to the left one (112 sts left). Pull on the strands to tighten.
Bottom border
The bottom border is worked over 6 rows in the following pattern:
Round 1: *Sl, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Round 2: *K1, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 2 more times.
You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the border shorter/ longer.
Main body
The body of the cowl is worked in the following pattern:
Round 1: *Sl, P2, K2tog, Yo, P2, Sl, P2, Yo, Ssk, P2* to end.
Round 2: *K1, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Round 3: *Sl, P2, Yo, Ssk, P2, Sl, P2, K2tog, Yo, P2* to end.
Round 4: *K1, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Repeat rounds 1 – 4 until the piece measures approximately 23 cm (9″) from the cast-on edge or your desired length.
Top border
The top border is worked as the bottom border:
Round 1: *Sl, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Round 2: *K1, P2, K2, P2* to end.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 3 more times.
You can work fewer/ more rounds if you want to make the border shorter/ longer.
Bind off
Bind off sts in pattern (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches).
Step 1: Work the first 2 sts, bring the first st over the second one.
Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.
Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 4″ – 6” tail to weave in later. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.
You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.
Finishing
Weave in all loose ends.
I always advise wet or steam blocking the finished item, this process transforms the stitches and makes them look smoother and neater.
Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color), and roll it up to remove moisture.
Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (that doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.
I hope you enjoyed this cowl knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!
Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.
9 Comments
Hello, I can’t seem to get this pattern to work – the holes are on top of one another, not staggered to the side as in your knitting – can you help? Thanks
Hello Kate, I’ve updated the instructions, there was a round missing, that was creating the staggered eyelet. Now it should be correct. Thank you for bringing this to my attention, and sorry for the inconvenience!
Is this pattern knitted with 2 strands ?
No, with one strand.
Thank you. Is this pattern above the correct version? It’s a very pretty pattern I’m just having trouble making the body rows work to end up with 112 stitches.
Thanks again.
Hello, Catherine!
I’ve checked the pattern, and it seems to be correct. The cowl has a pattern repeat of 7 stitches = Sl, P2, K2, P2 (Slip 1 stitch, purl 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches, purl 2 stitches, and repeat to the end of the row). 112 divided by 7 equals 16 full pattern repeats, so it should add up.
Thank you for checking. I love the look. I’ll go back to the border and start again. I’m hoping to make 2 of these as presents.
Hello,
Thank you so much for the pretty pattern. I’ve made two headbands and I’m working on the cowl. I found it helpful while working on the cowl to place a marker every 14 stitches. I found that if I work a pattern section and I end up with less than 14 stitches it means that I’ve not added the necessary stitch at the decrease. I had that happen and had to re-start from the ribbing. I hope it helps. I’ve returned to knitting after many decades and am thrilled to find so many new and exciting patterns and generous people like you sharing their work with others. Thank you!
Hello Hortensia, thank you for taking the time to write a comment. Oh yes, placing a stitch marker after each pattern repeat can be very useful!