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Gauge is a very important part of knitting. It affects the finished measurements of your knitted item, its drape, and overall look. It also determines how much yarn you will need for a specific project, and what needles you should use.
So what exactly is knitting gauge?
Simply put, the gauge is the number of stitches and rows a knitter makes per centimeter (or inch) using certain yarn and needles. If a knitter changes the yarn or needle size, the gauge changes too. The same goes for crochet.
In this post, we will discuss why gauge is so important and what affects it, how to knit and measure a gauge swatch.
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Why gauge is important?
Gauge is crucial when you are knitting a garment, that needs to fit: hats, socks, sweaters, etc. Since you want your knit garment to be the right size and fit, you need to pay attention to your gauge. This way you will be happy with your knitted item, and will actually wear it.
If you’re working from a pattern, it typically includes the recommended gauge right at the beginning of the instructions. Gauge is usually indicated over 10 x 10 cm or 4 x 4″, but it can differ. The recommendations also include the stitch pattern the gauge is measured over, and if it is before or after blocking.
You will see something like this:
28 stitches x 40 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4″ in stockinette stitch.
This means, that if you knit 28 stitches for 40 rows, you should have a square, that measures 10cm/4” wide, and 10cm/4” high.
So, if you got gauge specified in the pattern and follow along with the instructions, your garment will end up being the right size and fit. If you don’t get the gauge, then the results can be unexpected. Your knitted item can be too big, or too small. It’s not a big deal if a scarf is a little longer than you’ve expected, but you don’t want to waste your time and yarn on a sweater, that’s huge.
When you know the recommended gauge, you need to determine if you get that gauge, using the chosen yarn and needles. The best way to do so is to knit a gauge swatch.
But what if you are not working from a pattern? Say, you want to knit a scarf in a cute stitch, that you’ve found online – you still need to check your gauge, because you still want to figure out the finished measurements, how much yarn you’ll need, what needle size to choose.
In this case, you need to examine the label of your chosen yarn. This is also what you do, in case you want to substitute yarn that was used in a pattern. All yarn labels have recommended needle size and gauge. It doesn’t mean, that you will get gauge, but this is your starting point.
How to knit a gauge swatch?
SUPPLIES
To knit a gauge swatch you will need:
- Yarn
- Needles
- A basin
- A clean towel
- Blocking mats (optional)
- A ruler or gauge ruler
A gauge swatch (it’s also called a tension square) is a small sample of your pattern, a test drive. It is worked using the same yarn and needles, you are going to use for that specific knitting project.
As mentioned above, typically you are going to measure your gauge over 10x10cm/ 4×4″ unless the pattern states otherwise. You need to knit a square that’s a little larger than the area you are going to measure (edge stitches tend to be looser, so you want to measure from the middle of the swatch to be accurate).
It is better to cast on the number of stitches, that will approximately measure at least 12cm/ 5”.
If the recommended gauge says, there are 28 stitches in 10cm/4″, then you should cast on about 34 stitches.
You can also add 3-4 additional stitches at either side of your swatch, and work them in garter stitch – this way the edges won’t curl and it will be easier to measure the gauge.
Knit for approximately 12cm/ 5” in pattern, and bind off.
How to block your gauge swatch?
I always wet block my swatches before measuring the gauge. This is important because yarn behaves unexpectedly after it gets washed. And since eventually, you will want to wash your knitted item, and you can be unpleasantly surprised. Your garment can shrink or stretch, depending on the yarn you used, so you need to keep this fact in mind.
Natural fiber yarns tend to change quite a lot after being washed. For example, pure wool tends to shrink, and merino wool grows.
Step 1: Soak.
Fill a clean wash basin with lukewarm water. You can add a small amount of soak wash, that you won’t need to rinse out or a delicate soap or shampoo.
Submerge the swatch and gently squeeze so the water penetrates the fibers fully. Leave it to soak for 10-15 minutes.
Step 2: Remove excess water with a towel.
Lift the swatch out of the water and gently squeeze to remove the excess water (do not wring!).
Next, lay the swatch on a clean towel and roll up.
Step 3: Block.
Pin the swatch to a blocking board and let it overnight to dry.
If you don’t have a blocking board, lay the swatch on a clean and dry towel.
How to measure your gauge swatch?
This part may sound obvious, but there are a few things to pay attention to.
Measure your swatch only when it is completely dry. You have come so far, you want to be accurate, right?
Take the pins out, and lay your swatch on a flat firm surface. Don’t measure on a couch or on your lap. You may also leave it on your blocking mat.
As mentioned before, measure from the middle.
I don’t recommend using a measuring tape, because it’s too flexible. Use an office ruler or, even better, a gauge ruler. Gauge rulers are very handy, you can also measure needle size with them.
Gauge ruler come in many different shapes and sizes. There are basic rulers, and there are also squares and fancy designer rulers.
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How to get gauge?
Even if you use the recommended needles and yarn, it doesn’t guarantee that you will get the specified gauge. This means you’ll need to make some adjustments.
You can switch to a larger/smaller needles, or you can use a heavier/ lighter yarn:
- Too many stitches – go up a needle size or knit with a heavier yarn.
- Too few stitches – go down a needle size or knit with a lighter yarn.
If this doesn’t help, you can try to change the type of your needles. Switching to plastic or bamboo needles can change your tension.
What affects knitting gauge?
The knitting gauge is affected by so many things.
Obviously, the chosen yarn weight and needle size determine the size of the stitches. Thicker yarn and larger needles will result in bigger stitches, meaning, fewer stitches per inch.
Knitting style (English or Continental) determines the way a person holds his yarn and needles and also affects the gauge.
Another significant thing is your personal knitting tension. Everyone knits differently. Some are looser knitters, so they will have fewer stitches per inch and the fabric will be floppier, some are tighter knitters – they will have more stitches, and the fabric will be firmer.
If a looser and a tighter knitter work the same pattern, using the same yarn and the same needles, their results will most probably differ. It will still be the same project, but the finished measurements won’t be the same.
Interesting fact: your mood can affect your tension! If you had a bad day, you’re likely to knit tighter, then you normally would.
Let’s not forget the knitting pattern itself. For example, cables will “pull in” your knitting, so you have to keep that in mind.
Knitting a gauge swatch is usually overlooked. We all want to get to the fun part, and not to waste our time swatching, but a gauge swatch can save you from unpleasant surprises. It’s better to take your time, and prepare, so you’ll be happy with the finished results!
I hope you found this gauge swatch tutorial useful. Be sure to check out other knitting tutorials!
2 Comments
When you knit/crochet the guage swatch – does the pattern take that into account when it says how much yarn is needed for the project??
Hi, no, patterns only state how much yarn you will need to make the specific item with the recommended gauge. So if you want to check your gauge, you will need more yarn.