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Headband overview
The Wildflower Headband is a warm double headband to keep you warm on the cooler days.
The pattern features a braid cable on a stockinette stitch background. The headband is worked in the round and the edges are sewn together forming a twist. The seam is hidden in the twist and is not visible.
This headband is knitted with light weight merino wool.
You might want to knit a matching cowl – Wildflower Cowl knitting pattern.
You will find the knitting instructions below.
Measurements: To fit women’s medium (54-56 cm/ 21 3/4 – 22″).
If you are knitting for a smaller/bigger circumference just knit fewer/ more pattern repeats.
If you want to make the headband narrower/ wider simply work fewer/ more stitches in the stockinette or reverse stockinette stitch sections.
Gauge: 22sts x 29rows = 10x10cm (4×4″) in stockinette stitch in the round after blocking.
Finished size:
- Width: 11cm (4.25″)
- Circumference unstretched: 50cm (19.75″)
Be sure to check out my other headband knitting patterns.
You might also like:
- Summit Headband knitting pattern
- Braided Headband knitting pattern
- Folgate Hat knitting pattern
- The Amber Cowl knitting pattern
- Sandstone scarf knitting pattern
PIN this for later!
Supplies
To knit this headband you will need the following supplies:
- Yarn: ~100g (3.6 oz) light weight yarn (category #3). I used Drops Merino Extra Fine in the color mustard (30). It’s 100% merino wool. If you don’t have the mentioned yarn at hand, here are similar yarn options:
- Needles: 4mm (US6) circular needles with an 80cm (32″) long cord for the magic loop method or a set of double-pointed needles.
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker (optional)
Abbreviations
CO – cast on
St (s) – stitch (es)
K – knit
P – purl
C6F – slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave at front of work. Knit the next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
C6B – slip 3 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back of work. Knit the next 3 stitches, then knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
WILDFLOWER HEADBAND KNITTING PATTERN
Cast on
CO on 54 sts using the Long-tail cast-on method or the one you prefer.
Join in the round being careful not to twist the sts and place a marker. I prefer using the invisible join method:
Step 1: Cast on 54 + 1 extra st (a total of 55 sts).
Step 2: Slip the first st purlwise from the left needle to the right needle.
Step 3: Bring the second st from the right needle over the top of the first st (the one, that we have passed from the left needle)
Step 4: Put that slipped st from the right needle back to the left one (54 sts left). Pull on the strands to tighten.
Headband
Round 1: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Round 2: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Round 3: K6, P3, K3, C6F, P3, K to end.
Round 4: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Round 5: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Round 6: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Round 7: K6, P3, C6B, K3, P3, K to end.
Round 8: K6, P3, K9, P3, K to end.
Repeat rounds 1-8 seventeen more times (a total of eighteen pattern repeats).
If you want to change the circumference you can knit more/fewer rows. You don’t need to knit full pattern repeats, because the edges will be hidden in the twist.
Bind off
Bind off sts in pattern (knit over knit stitches, purl over purl stitches).
Step 1: Work 2, bring the first st over the second one.
Step 2: Work the next st, bring the first st over the second one.
Repeat step 2 until you have 1 stitch left, cut the yarn leaving a 30-40cm / 12-16″ tail to seam the headband. Draw the yarn tail through the last stitch and pull it snug.
You will find a detailed tutorial on how to bind off knitting HERE.
Twist
Step 1: With the right side facing you, bring the shorter edges closer together and fold each edge in half so they look like a “V”.
Step 2: Now insert one edge into another. Make sure, that the yarn tail is on the outside, and not in between the layers.
Step 3: Stitch through all eight layers of knit fabric back and forth.
Finishing
Weave in all loose ends, and turn the headband the right side out.
Wet block the finished item, this process transforms the stitches, and makes them look smoother and neater.
Simply soak the knitted item in lukewarm water with some soak wash for 10-15 minutes. Lift it from the water and gently squeeze the excess water out. Next, lay it on a clean towel, and roll it up to remove moisture.
Pin the item to a blocking board or lay it on a clean and dry towel (make sure it doesn’t transfer color) and let it dry. Your knitting will look much better after this.
I hope you enjoyed this headband knitting pattern, be sure to check out my other knitting patterns!
Thank you for stopping by,
Mirella.
2 Comments
I love to try this new pattern and it’s matching cowl, but I am so confused with the instructions. Like, in your Thistle Headbamd, that could be knitted flat still with the cable sticking and came out great….why or how is this one made with so many stitches and in the round? Why is it connected if the piece is ultimately meant to be a flat headband? Why so many stitches casted on instead of the usual 20-26? I guess I’m just confused with the instructions…would love to make this soon though. Please let me know if I’m missing something, can knit this flat, or somehow cast on waaaayyyy less stitches to make this. Thank you foe your time!
Hi Sarah! The headband is knitted in the round so as a result it is double layered. You will knit a long tube in the round, that’s why there is twice as much stitches as it would be needed if knitted flat. If you knit a double layer headband it is warmer, and the edges don’t curl and you don’t need to add selvedge stitches.
If you want to knit it flat, you should simply cast on fewer stitches and add selvedges, or the edges will curl and won’t look neat. I really enjoy the look of i-cord edging lately – doesn’t curl + looks neat + easy to knit. I used it in the Summit Headband. So, you could cast on: 3 sts (i-cord selvedge) + about 26sts for the main pattern + 3sts (i-cord selvedge) = that’s a total of 32sts. You can also choose any other selvedge.